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Post by Wolfman on Dec 5, 2017 10:58:35 GMT -5
I have some pipes that clearly have to much buildup. I've tried scraping them with a pocket knife but they end up uneven and I cannot reach the bottom of the bowl.
Should I buy a reaming tool ? If so, which one?
Also is this something simple or should I send the out to a professional ?
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Post by haebar on Dec 5, 2017 11:31:04 GMT -5
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Post by slowroll on Dec 5, 2017 11:33:38 GMT -5
The best one IMO is the Senior reamer. it provides the least chance of chipping the cake. Just adjust for a light cut and don't push down too hard. Pretty simple.
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Post by Darin on Dec 5, 2017 11:45:38 GMT -5
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Post by oldcajun123 on Dec 5, 2017 12:04:46 GMT -5
List of Reamers as to function, Senior Reamers, really aggressive, can be a bastard in the wrong hands, PIPNET, will outlast the average pipe smoker and does a very good job, Pricey, Castleford Reamer, does a good job for a decent price. When useing a reamer the most obvious thing most people do is the Tilt and rounding the top lip, be careful. That's my 2 cents.
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Post by peteguy on Dec 5, 2017 13:08:35 GMT -5
Get one of these as well when starting out. Less chance of doing and damage.  |
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Post by trailboss on Dec 5, 2017 14:49:18 GMT -5
I use a combination of four tools The senior reamer works on most bowls, so I use it the most....works best on tapered bowls as you can see in the pic, it doesn't expand far enough on wider bowls. One really nice feature of the senior reamer is the drill bit/ auger....just recently I cleaned up a Peterson Aran because it started smoking foul....cleaned it up and at the last minute decided to use the bit...scads of crude "walked" up the bit as it cleaned out hardened nastiness that my pipe cleaners had skated over. More alcohol and pipe cleaners, and I got it clean as a whistle...and most assuredly opened a draft that I hadn't noticed became incrementally restricted over time. as a sidebar...keep that shank clean, it can be a nasty well of putridness. I like my Castleford reamer for the wider bowls like a pot shape, but the plastic "T" Handle is junk, mine broke way easier than it should have...the handle should be aluminum.  I just picked up a British buttner, and it seemed to do a pretty good job, but some bowls are too small to full insert the tool, some are too large for the tool. .JPG) I have heard several people say that the Pipnet reamer is superior to the Castleford, I have never gotten my hands on one though.... It really helps to have a variety of tools, sandpaper wrapped around your finger can be pretty effective at knocking down carbon also....and pay attention to what Brad said, you can bugger up a bowl by being too aggressive and pipesmagazine.com/python/pipe-talk/how-to-ream-a-tobacco-pipe/ |
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Post by trailboss on Dec 5, 2017 15:46:00 GMT -5
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Post by Deleted on Dec 5, 2017 15:46:29 GMT -5
another vote for keeping the shank clean . . . not enough to just run a pipe cleaner through the airway. . . . bending a pipe cleaner and swabbing the shank interior, pays dividends.
To get even cake forming, I periodically trim back the speed bump at top of the bowl. For smaller tasks like this, I use an electricians knife with the blunt nose/edge.
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Post by Deleted on Dec 5, 2017 15:49:23 GMT -5
I pretty much have the same setup as Charlie. I have the Senior, which I found works well, but is too tapered for some of my bowls. I picked up a Pipnet reamer from Pipestud a few months ago. Between the two, I can do any bowl. I had a Buttner, but gave it away. I also have a Rogers of Sheffield pipe knife that goes with me in my pipe bag or case.
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Post by PhantomWolf on Dec 5, 2017 17:07:32 GMT -5
I chipped my cake in one of my pipes using the spoon on a Czech tool.. I honestly need to go to the next Pittsburgh Pipe Club meeting and see in person what thickness a cake should be maintained at. I'm still painfully novice at this.
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Post by oldcajun123 on Dec 5, 2017 17:14:41 GMT -5
Experts say the thickness of a dime. I wipe mine with a towel, good briar doesn't need cake, just my uninformed opinion.
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Post by Nevadablue on Dec 5, 2017 17:19:45 GMT -5
The brebbia is plastic and steel like all the rest. I use a Decatur set and they work just fine. Also, the chinese Senior and a Buttner and a few other odds and ends. Brushes for the shank and draft hole and stem are good too.
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Post by TwelveAMnTX on Dec 5, 2017 18:10:49 GMT -5
I started out just using a small bladed pocket knife. I had some problems with getting an uneven or out of round chamber using the knife. So, I got a cheap "Buttner style" reamer from one of the cart addition deals on P&C. It wasn't bad, but took some getting used to in order to make it work properly. I was still needing something else, I thought, so I got the Decatur Ream-All. It's a cheaper version of the Castleford pictured above. It works okay, but had to put tape on the tips & shim the handle to get them to stay together. It might not be sharp, but it can mess up a pipe real quick. I use all 3 for different situations & pipe sizes/shapes, but the little pocket knife still works the best! It may not be the quickest option, but it's never done more damage than I intended it too.  As for cleaning shanks & such .... the Neerup brushes work very well IMO. I bought a set of each ... chamber, mortise, & shank brushes from SP.    I use these when I do a good cleaning, about once a month or so depending on how dirty the pipe looks. The chamber brush helps to knock off any uneven spots & loose bits. They come clean using soap & warm water, I have found them to be an awesome addition to my pipe cleaning kit. |
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Post by peteguy on Dec 5, 2017 18:23:54 GMT -5
I use those as well Todd. They are easy and do wonders.
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Post by Wolfman on Dec 6, 2017 8:34:04 GMT -5
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Post by Wolfman on Dec 6, 2017 8:36:06 GMT -5
Thanks everyone. I'm going to figure out a plan and I'll follow up.
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Post by trailboss on Dec 6, 2017 10:07:32 GMT -5
The brebbia is plastic and steel like all the rest. [ Thank you for the clarification. On the Danish shop site, the wording has you believe that the handle is Iron, and zooming in it looks like cast Iron with slight pores on it, unlike my plastic Castleford. Brebbia’s wholesale site is worded the same, but a returned email from the Danish shop confirms what you are saying. (I wanted to see if they recently changed production)... on a google search, it is apparent that the handles can be prone to breakage. I am going to see if I can find an outdoor water faucet T handle and see if I can use a socket drive adapter to solve my problem. |
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Post by Darin on Dec 6, 2017 12:17:08 GMT -5
Experts say the thickness of a dime. I wipe mine with a towel, good briar doesn't need cake, just my uninformed opinion. Agreed ... no need for a reamer because I don't let it build up. |
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Post by Nevadablue on Dec 6, 2017 17:37:58 GMT -5
Good idea Charlie. On the Decatur, the handle on mine fits tightly and so far, no problem with breakage. I never force the thing though. I think one could break a bowl by cranking the reamer too hard. I do plan to sharpen mine. I don't like dull tools and these are not really sharp. They cut OK, but I think they will work MUCH better if sharpened. Now to just do it.
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Post by trailboss on Dec 7, 2017 11:33:43 GMT -5
Good idea Charlie. On the Decatur, the handle on mine fits tightly and so far, no problem with breakage. I never force the thing though. I think one could break a bowl by cranking the reamer too hard. I do plan to sharpen mine. I don't like dull tools and these are not really sharp. They cut OK, but I think they will work MUCH better if sharpened. Now to just do it. I bombed out the water faucet handles are called "sillcock handles", but the dimensions do not mate with a socket adapter. I am going to just order another Castleford reamer from ebay and return it with the broken handle....I don't operate that way usually, but I got mine at a Christmas gift exchange by a person who bought it on Ebay two years ago, and used it twice before it broke outside the warranty period. I didn't use unreasonable force, just a crappy handle. |
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Post by Deleted on Dec 7, 2017 17:09:05 GMT -5
I found a PipNet kit in a thrift shop, minus the handle. As a work around, I use a short socket wrench extension and small ViceGrips as the handle.
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Post by Deleted on Dec 7, 2017 23:21:25 GMT -5
I would agree that there is no need for a reamer if you start with a new pipe. I like to resurrect caked up, oxidized, lonely pipes for fun, however. Then you must have one.
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Post by trailboss on Dec 8, 2017 3:29:45 GMT -5
Experts say the thickness of a dime. I wipe mine with a towel, good briar doesn't need cake, just my uninformed opinion. Agreed ... no need for a reamer because I don't let it build up. Over ninety percent of my smoking is on the road, if I smoked mostly at home with the conveniences, I would probably have the same experience... most reaming I do takes place on new to me estate pipes. I am a big fan of the shank brushes also, and try to use the bristle cleaners on seriously gooped up estate pipes since Ron spoke on how he has seen the wires put scrapes in the wood on the airway. |
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Post by Darin on Dec 8, 2017 7:53:32 GMT -5
No excuses, mister. Hold that wheel with one knee and clean those pipes properly! Lol  |
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Post by trailboss on Dec 8, 2017 8:33:05 GMT -5
I actually do that sometimes.... 😲
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Post by Darin on Dec 8, 2017 10:18:22 GMT -5
Ha! Me too. |
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Post by trailboss on Dec 29, 2017 13:57:48 GMT -5
Good idea Charlie. On the Decatur, the handle on mine fits tightly and so far, no problem with breakage. I never force the thing though. I think one could break a bowl by cranking the reamer too hard. I do plan to sharpen mine. I don't like dull tools and these are not really sharp. They cut OK, but I think they will work MUCH better if sharpened. Now to just do it. I bombed out the water faucet handles are called "sillcock handles", but the dimensions do not mate with a socket adapter. I am going to just order another Castleford reamer from ebay and return it with the broken handle....I don't operate that way usually, but I got mine at a Christmas gift exchange by a person who bought it on Ebay two years ago, and used it twice before it broke outside the warranty period.
I didn't use unreasonable force, just a crappy handle.Like I said, I don't like doing that but for the reasons outlined, I did...good news, the newer handle is more robust. The old one had Castleford printed on it and had a noticeable flex right at the get go. The New T handle from the same seller has a handle with no name printed on it, but it is definitely a heavier gauge product. |
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Post by daveinlax on Dec 29, 2017 16:47:43 GMT -5
I have most of the reamers list plus a couple of Dunhill sets in the davecave but I use and recommend sandpaper. I tried wrapping in on a dowel but I just use it on my finger.
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Post by Deleted on Dec 29, 2017 17:12:17 GMT -5
I either have too many pipes and have not smoked any of them enough to gain a major build up in them to warrant a reaming process or i clean each one too much after each pipe full no cake here
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