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Post by haebar on Sept 8, 2017 13:01:07 GMT -5
I bought one of these Beall Wood Buffing kits from Vermont Freehand and got it in the mail this week (very fast shipper BTW). It comes with an quick-change adapter that attaches to the buffer shaft and allows you to change buffs in seconds without tools. It also includes three buffs for Red Tripoli, White Diamond, and Carnauba wax. In addition, it comes with big bars of all of these polishing compounds. I ordered an extra buff to put a final shine after the wax wheel. I'd like to hear of your experiences with buffing on pipes and comments. I've got a bunch of old pipes that I want to restore and would like to hear any dos and don'ts that you can share.
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Post by trailboss on Sept 8, 2017 13:32:28 GMT -5
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Post by haebar on Sept 8, 2017 13:37:06 GMT -5
THANKS! That is a great resource.
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Post by trailboss on Sept 8, 2017 13:47:57 GMT -5
You are welcome, Steve is a good guy and he does a great job of sharing what he knows.
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Post by beardedmi on Sept 8, 2017 15:34:59 GMT -5
Best piece of advice is put something down to catch a flying pipe, as Murphys law says it will be the hardest to find pipe that will catch on the wheel and take a flying lesson. Its not the flight that breaks em, its the hard stuff at the end.
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Post by peteguy on Sept 8, 2017 15:51:47 GMT -5
I had one of those setup on a lathe where all 3 wheels were together. I take it by the quick change tool that your setup will be different. beardedmi nailed the advice. I had carpet tacked to the wall and mats everywhere. Poker shapes are the worst for catching an edge.
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Post by Darin on Sept 8, 2017 16:02:56 GMT -5
I've used Otto Frei for many of my Gem and Mineral needs ... buffers, polishes, diamond bits, etc. www.ottofrei.com/
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Post by Deleted on Sept 9, 2017 6:24:07 GMT -5
You'll find a lot of good info on how to buff at Caswell's where I get all my buffing needs. CASWELL'SAnd NO! I'm not affiliated with them in anyway.
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Post by haebar on Sept 9, 2017 7:18:19 GMT -5
I had one of those setup on a lathe where all 3 wheels were together. I take it by the quick change tool that your setup will be different. beardedmi nailed the advice. I had carpet tacked to the wall and mats everywhere. Poker shapes are the worst for catching an edge. Yes, I will be using it on a single shaft motor and changing out the wheels. I don't have a lathe. Thanks for the advice!
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charl
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First Name: Charl
Favorite Pipe: Stannie/Svendborg
Favorite Tobacco: Old Gowrie
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Post by charl on Sept 14, 2017 2:30:28 GMT -5
Use an old pipe that you don't care about as a trial first. It takes some time to get used to the "whattodoandwhatnot".
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Post by crapgame on Sept 14, 2017 17:04:02 GMT -5
I used my orbital car buffer on a few pipes and it worked just fine... mide you I used a new buffer pad and the pipes were basket pipes.
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Post by anarchisthermit on Sept 16, 2017 11:08:38 GMT -5
I started by using a strapped down electric drill and individual wheels and arbors. But I do love my Bealle set up, mainly for the convenience.
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donhava
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Favorite Pipe: BP Jum pot
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Post by donhava on Sept 21, 2017 7:47:57 GMT -5
I just bought a 6" bench buffer from Harbor Freight. It comes with 6" buffing wheels. I would like to put the Beall buffing kit on it, but I think the kit only comes with 8" and 4" wheels. I have enough clearance to use the 8" wheels, but I'm not sure whether it would be best to use the 8" or 4", or neither.
Any advice from you buffer owners?
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Post by peteguy on Sept 21, 2017 14:35:26 GMT -5
hey donhava, what speed is the HF buffer you picked up? If it is 3600rpm then you will want to go with the size that will slow it down. I dont know what that is but maybe an engineer will post which one. It is better to get the 1750 rpm buffers but they are harder to find.
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Post by Deleted on Sept 21, 2017 19:40:40 GMT -5
The larger the wheels the slower the contact surface speed but, 3600 and even 3400 rpm a too fast for buffing pipes. These buffers are more for buffing brass, aluminum etc. and will most likely burn right through a finish and a stem not to mention at that speed if it were to grab the pipe from your hand it fling through the wall or shatter into pieces before your feet. A 1/3 HP 1750 rpm motor is more suitable for the job. Big horsepower isn't really a factor because the light pressure only needed to buff elements of a pipe. I use old two shaft and single shaft motors for buffing and a shaping wheel and they work just fine. Here's a photo of mine although the configuration has changed. I have buffing wheels on the two shaft now instead of wire wheels and the one on the left is the single shaft one I use for shaping wheels without the arbor. That big boy in the middle is a 2hp 3600rpm buffer that will rip your arm off if you don't know what you're doing and I only used it for brass and such and even then if you're not wise it will ruin your item and or your day.
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Post by peteguy on Sept 21, 2017 20:38:10 GMT -5
Nice units you have there Ron. Looks like you have made some nice bases as well.
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Post by Deleted on Sept 21, 2017 20:59:24 GMT -5
Nice units you have there Ron. Looks like you have made some nice bases as well. Thank you sir, yeah I haven't any room for bench mounted machines. My shop is so small that I can literally be sitting at the bench and do a 90 and be sitting in front of my lathe. So everything has got to be very organized because space is at a premium. In fact where the photo shows my buffers are is where my blast cabinet and pressure pot is now with the 2 shaft buffer sitting in front, so I have to move it aside every time I blast. I finally took the 2hp buffer out to the shed (with help of my neighbor) because I had little use for it anymore and it took up too much needed room.
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Post by anarchisthermit on Sept 23, 2017 7:58:27 GMT -5
www.harborfreight.com/8-in-5-speed-bench-drill-press-62520.htmlCheap alternative for a buffer/sander. I had one similar but maybe even cheaper. When I upgraded I found this had no resale value to speak of. I turned it on its side and bought wheels and arbors. Also a 5" sanding pad. I leave it at medium speed, around 1500 rpm.
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