Hello folks, I just wanted to post a few pictures of the Lovat I finished up today. I have a few chunks of maple in the shop and every once in awhile I decide to use it for a pipe creation. All the lines are tight and stem/shank interface is tight and seamless. Anyway, here are a few pics but first the specs: P.S. Those are not scratches on the up close of the stem with the 3/32" brass inset. Shank is 1 1/2" the height of the bowl as per Lovat spec
Maple Lovat with Blood Wood Ring Pipe bowl is canted approx 3 - 4 degrees forward. Length: 6.75” Height: 1 7/8" Chamber diameter: 0.75” O.D.: 1.25” Bowl depth: 1 5/8" Pass a pipe cleaner: Yes Delrin Tenon Stem: vulcanite AKA Pre-formed Sock/glove: yes Shape: Lovat Finish: Smooth Weight: 42grams 1.5oz
I know it is tough to see against the light wood of the maple, but stamp is strong and crisp.
Last Edit: Oct 19, 2017 20:27:07 GMT -5 by shikano53
Post by Nevadablue on Oct 20, 2017 11:14:30 GMT -5
Beautiful Chris! Is it just the lighting or what... the Blood Wood Ring isn't visible in all the pics. If I may, how does the ring work? Is it part of the shank? Very interesting to me, please show us how that part of the pipe making works if you don't mind.
Hi desertpackrat, Everyone has their own way and I do it two different ways depending on the material I am using. First, It is probably the lighting in the pictures. The blood wood gleams and IMHO makes the contrast between the maple and the stem really stand out and gives the pipe a bit of elan. So I placed this ring on the delrin tenon, not on the shank. I do this with most of my rings so that I don't have to worry about getting stain on the ring if it is placed on the shank. When I place a ring on the tenon and stem, I make the tenon longer as wide as the ring will be. Do you know what I mean? So if the ring is 1/4" wide I make the tenon a 1/4" longer. I cut a piece of ring material the width I want to fit my faced shank. I don't have a metal lathe, just the Canadian equivalent of a small Harbor Freight wood lathe. (I took the lathe completely apart when I got it home and polished all the ways and the gibs and any other surfaces.) I then chuck the ring material in my small Nova scroll chuck with a set of pen turning jaws. Then I drill that piece with my mortise drill bit so it will slide onto the tenon. I then face one side of the ring material so that one side is smooth and will sit seamlessly and with no daylight showing through on the stem/ring interface. I haven't glued it in place yet so it's easy to slip it on and off. My airway and mortise are already faced and drilled and I know that the stem without the ring on it fits the shank perfectly. So I know have a ring that is faced on one side and fits the stem on the tenon seamlessly. I place the unfaced side of my ring in my little pen jaw set and face that side very carefully. I use my 1/2" scraper and sandpaper for this. I then take the stem, the ring, and the stummel/shank and dry fit them all together to make sure all the faces are seamless and no daylight shines through the joining faces. Not until I am satisfied with this do I glue the ring onto the stem with super glue. I rough up the delrin surface where the ring will sit and apply the glue to only one joining surface, generally the stem. Then it's just a matter of letting the glue cure, fit it to the stummel and chuck it all up and turn it down. Sorry for being long winded. It sounds complicated but it's not really.
I meant to say that I rough up the surface of the stem that will sit against the ring, not the delrin tenon, although I do rough the delrin tenon part (insert part into the stem) that will fit in the stem and also the inside of the mortise cut.