trevorrace
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Post by trevorrace on Jan 26, 2018 17:11:13 GMT -5
I went ahead and bought one of the rejects because it's all I could afford. Although, I don't really see any reason to consider this one a reject. It looks fine to me. I just thought it wise to pop on here and see if anyone had any tips for me before I get started. If I was a surgeon, I wouldn't know where to make my first cut. I could figure it out in this case, but I'd rather ask someone with some experience, as I've never done anything like this before. As far as tools go, I'll be using some basic hand carving tools and a dremel.
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JDunbar
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"By all means, make friends with the dog....but do not lay aside the stick!"
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Post by JDunbar on Jan 26, 2018 17:59:53 GMT -5
Never attempted anything like this before so no tips from me...looking forward to seeing the finished product when your done. Maybe post a couple pics as you make progress for us.
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Post by beardedmi on Jan 26, 2018 18:56:28 GMT -5
Get a good idea of what you wamt it to look like and draw it on the block. Remove anything that isnt pipe like.
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Post by slowroll on Jan 26, 2018 19:17:59 GMT -5
If you have a vice and a saw, I'd start by clamping it in a vice and sawing off the big pieces that aren't a pipe. Then proceed with files and a dremel. Patience and perseverance.
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trevorrace
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Posts: 74
First Name: Trevor
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Post by trevorrace on Jan 26, 2018 20:12:51 GMT -5
That's my one big problem. I only have a small bench vise, and it's a real hunk of junk.
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Post by scrooge on Jan 26, 2018 20:25:13 GMT -5
Personally I'd just stain it an wax it. or just let it turn naturally. Smoke it as is for a while. If you like it then just leave it. If not you can always try to form it later. My 2 cents.
By the way PM me your name an address info.
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Post by Ronv69 on Jan 26, 2018 20:33:50 GMT -5
Don't cut yourself.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Jan 27, 2018 21:02:48 GMT -5
Patience.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Jan 28, 2018 1:29:43 GMT -5
Don't shoot for an entry in the ugly pipe contest. That's all I got.
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trevorrace
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First Name: Trevor
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Post by trevorrace on Jan 28, 2018 17:35:47 GMT -5
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trevorrace
New Member
Posts: 74
First Name: Trevor
Location:
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Post by trevorrace on Jan 28, 2018 17:39:27 GMT -5
Haha thanks everyone! This is quickly becoming a great learning experience for me. I've already cut myself twice, stained part of the wood with blood, learned the importance of being patient, and discovered firsthand exactly how HARD Briar really is.
I'm also learning how poorly most of the Dremel brand bits work. Most of them just spin on the wood, leaving a bunt mark.
But no matter what problems i find myself running into, I am also finding this to be quite therapeutic for me. I either put on a movie or some music, and start tinkering.
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Post by beardedmi on Jan 28, 2018 19:36:29 GMT -5
A few tips for dremels: Let the tool do the cutting dont press into the wood hard, just let the tool work. Abrasives are for finishing not cutting use them last. Know that a cutter has an ideal cutting speed when you find it things go faster and smoother. Sand twice as much as you think you need to before finishing, every scratch shows up when the gloss goes on. These are all tips from using them on softer wood and steel as I haven't made my own pipe.. yet.
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Post by johnlawitzke on Jan 28, 2018 21:58:08 GMT -5
Tip 1: Do not hold the block in your hand while removing wood. Sounds like you’ve already found that out the hard way by cutting yourself. Use a leather padded vise.
Tip 2: Get a Flexi-Shaft attachment for your Dremel tool. It gets the vibrating motor out of your hand so you can be steadier. I hang my Dremel from a hook near my vise.
Tip 3: If you are not already skilled with a Dremel, practice on something other than your briar block to learn the techniques. I was already very skilled with a Dremel from my historical miniatures and model making days before I shaped my first pipe.
Tip 4: For my shaping work with a Dremel, I use almost exclusively high speed cutter bit 117 and the sanding drum. These are much much easier to use with the Flexi-Shaft attachment,
Tip 5: Watch what direction you move the bit in contact with the wood. You'll know your going the wrong way when it catches on the material and runs away from you. With the Flexi-Shaft in my right hand pointing towards my left and the bit above the material, I draw towards me to remove material. The same motion you’d make if whittling with a knife. You aren’t going to remove a lot of material at one time.
Tip 6: Like with anything involving pipes: patience. You aren't going to shape your pipe in just an hour or two. Take your time.
Tip 7: Steve Norse (Vermont Freehand) sends out pretty much the same stem with every pre-drilled block whether it is proportionally right for that block or not. For almost all the pre drilled blocks that I’ve gotten from him, I’ve fitted a more appropriate stem. (I have a tenon turning tool.)
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trevorrace
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First Name: Trevor
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Post by trevorrace on Jan 29, 2018 0:42:44 GMT -5
Tip 1: Do not hold the block in your hand while removing wood. Sounds like you’ve already found that out the hard way by cutting yourself. Use a leather padded vise. Tip 2: Get a Flexi-Shaft attachment for your Dremel tool. It gets the vibrating motor out of your hand so you can be steadier. I hang my Dremel from a hook near my vise. Tip 3: If you are not already skilled with a Dremel, practice on something other than your briar block to learn the techniques. I was already very skilled with a Dremel from my historical miniatures and model making days before I shaped my first pipe. Tip 4: For my shaping work with a Dremel, I use almost exclusively high speed cutter bit 117 and the sanding drum. These are much much easier to use with the Flexi-Shaft attachment, Tip 5: Watch what direction you move the bit in contact with the wood. You'll know your going the wrong way when it catches on the material and runs away from you. With the Flexi-Shaft in my right hand pointing towards my left and the bit above the material, I draw towards me to remove material. The same motion you’d make if whittling with a knife. You aren’t going to remove a lot of material at one time. Tip 6: Like with anything involving pipes: patience. You aren't going to shape your pipe in just an hour or two. Take your time. Tip 7: Steve Norse (Vermont Freehand) sends out pretty much the same stem with every pre-drilled block whether it is proportionally right for that block or not. For almost all the pre drilled blocks that I’ve gotten from him, I’ve fitted a more appropriate stem. (I have a tenon turning tool.) This is all great info, thanks for taking the time to type this up for me. Much appreciated.
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Post by 78whiteorbs on Jan 29, 2018 2:15:45 GMT -5
Curious to see how it turns out.
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ladybriarpipes
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Which way is up?
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Post by ladybriarpipes on Jan 29, 2018 8:48:34 GMT -5
pipemakersforum.com. You will find everything you need to know. I got my start there. It's a wealth of information.
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