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Post by haebar on Mar 30, 2018 17:42:43 GMT -5
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Post by Legend Lover on Mar 30, 2018 17:46:20 GMT -5
Funny, I saw this only yesterday and thought it was interesting. Let me know how it goes.
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Post by oldcajun123 on Mar 30, 2018 18:14:13 GMT -5
Wear eye protection, I used an one glove to hold pipe, you don't need a big flame, candle will do, I used round cotton pads that manicurists use to wipe off nail polish to push down in pipe bowl. Be very careful , be safe.
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Post by Legend Lover on Mar 30, 2018 18:16:44 GMT -5
Wear eye protection, I used an one glove to hold pipe, you don't need a big flame, candle will do, I used round cotton pads that manicurists use to wipe off nail polish to push down in pipe bowl. Be very careful , be safe. Sounds like kosher salt and alcohol is a healthier way to clean a pipe...but where's the fun in that? Safety first.
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Post by peteguy on Mar 30, 2018 18:18:04 GMT -5
Wear heat protective gloves. Be careful. You will need some type of hose to connect to your stem. I found this to be the worst part. Mine kept slipping off. Keep the pipe slightly elevated above the glass so you don't get an explosion of hot liquor coming out of every seam, nook, cranny, etc. Fill the bowl with cotton balls to absorb said explosion. It is a lot of work so I decided to only do it on something that is ghastly. Luckily I have only had to do it on two pipes and ended up selling them both.
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Post by slowroll on Mar 30, 2018 18:21:55 GMT -5
Yep. Have done it many times on estates and customer restorations. Gets all the klag out of the pipe better than any other method. Just make sure you have a good snuffer on hand to snuff the flake quickly if any alcohol flames; although I've never had it happen, it can. I just leave the pipe chamber open to see how far up the alcohol is rising so I know exactly when to pull the flame aside. The conventional instructions are to stuff cotton in the bowl, but I find that problematic. When the alcohol just starts rising past the draft hole, pull the flame and let it percolate back. Do it several times with a bit of bristle cleaner scrubbing in between, and you'll get all the klag out nicely. If the kit doesn't have a hose, latex surgical hose works well, available from lots of suppliers, I use Mcmaster Carr, they have everything; catalog over 3000 pages.
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Post by haebar on Mar 30, 2018 18:23:34 GMT -5
It seems to be very dangerous. Thanks for the warnings. Perhaps I'll try it with a solution of water and alcohol so it won't be so explosive. Do you think I should use a neutral alcohol like vodka or should I use something with a little flavor like some bourbon?
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Post by oldcajun123 on Mar 30, 2018 18:26:27 GMT -5
Good silicone tubing can be found at Lowes or Home Depot, Don't keep test tube over flame all the time, give it a shot and take away from flame, doing this let's you control the process. I use Everclear.
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Post by slowroll on Mar 30, 2018 18:29:26 GMT -5
It seems to be very dangerous. Thanks for the warnings. Perhaps I'll try it with a solution of water and alcohol so it won't be so explosive. Do you think I should use a neutral alcohol like vodka or should I use something with a little flavor like some bourbon? It's not dangerous unless you're using a blowtorch. Use a short candle that you can slide aside when the alcohol starts rising in the bowl. Use full, proof stuff like everclear or it won't work as well, because of the water content. It'll actually be more dangerous, because you have to raise the temp to nearly the boiling temp of water, so the alcohol component is hotter than it needs to be, and will tend to evaporate and raise pressure.
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Post by peteguy on Mar 30, 2018 18:37:12 GMT -5
I used to much flame it appears. I will try a candle next time. Live and learn. At least I didn't lose my good looks.
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Post by Ronv69 on Mar 30, 2018 18:44:25 GMT -5
I use boiling water to heat the alcohol on an electric range. I think it works much better than an open flame. This is only for pipes with the shank so gunked up that no other method is practical. It works very well, and can save hours of work and many hours of scrubbing.
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duffer
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Post by duffer on Apr 1, 2018 18:43:18 GMT -5
If don’t correctly it is very effective
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Post by simnettpratt on Apr 1, 2018 19:57:04 GMT -5
Dn't drop it when it finally starts to bubble. It scared me
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Post by PhantomWolf on Apr 1, 2018 20:14:32 GMT -5
This looks very involved. Haha
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Post by trailboss on Apr 1, 2018 20:20:41 GMT -5
I use an alcohol burner to heat th alcohol, it gives a hotter flame to get quicker results.. it is pretty effective at removing crud, and as of now I see no downside to using it.
If you follow up with. Salt alcohol treatment of the bowl, it is a real time saver.
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sablebrush52
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Post by sablebrush52 on Apr 1, 2018 21:58:16 GMT -5
I've used it many times on estates to get rid of stubborn tobacco oil deposits. A tea candle will do nicely. I use a rocking motion to control the boil and gloves to protect my hands. I didn't find it difficult to do, and very effective at getting out gunk that other methods leave behind.
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Post by Stanhill on Apr 2, 2018 19:49:17 GMT -5
I used to much flame it appears. I will try a candle next time. Live and learn. At least I didn't lose my good looks. Luckily, you didn't, but what on earth happened to the right side of your face..?
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flyinmanatee
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Post by flyinmanatee on Apr 7, 2018 22:15:55 GMT -5
So bottom line, how essential is this method?
Would it be done on all estates say 40-50 yr old?
If not what would determine it, say barely smoked with no or little cake build up?
Got a box today of a few pipes I want to pee fart around with, all from the 60's and probably not used in decades, thanks for any info and I will eventually get set up with a retort system of some kind.
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Post by Ronv69 on Apr 7, 2018 22:37:53 GMT -5
So bottom line, how essential is this method? Would it be done on all estates say 40-50 yr old? If not what would determine it, say barely smoked with no or little cake build up? Got a box today of a few pipes I want to pee fart around with, all from the 60's and probably not used in decades, thanks for any info and I will eventually get set up with a retort system of some kind. On most pipes it won't be necessary. But the ones that have been really heavily smoked will probably need it unless they have been unusually well maintained. Run a bristle pipe cleaner through the shank of each and you will soon get a feel for it. If the pipe has a bad ghost, just do it anyway.
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sablebrush52
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Post by sablebrush52 on Apr 7, 2018 23:05:08 GMT -5
So bottom line, how essential is this method? Would it be done on all estates say 40-50 yr old? If not what would determine it, say barely smoked with no or little cake build up? Got a box today of a few pipes I want to pee fart around with, all from the 60's and probably not used in decades, thanks for any info and I will eventually get set up with a retort system of some kind. On most pipes it won't be necessary. But the ones that have been really heavily smoked will probably need it unless they have been unusually well maintained. Run a bristle pipe cleaner through the shank of each and you will soon get a feel for it. If the pipe has a bad ghost, just do it anyway. ^ This! Plus, I will use a retort if the S/A treatment doesn't work.
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Post by slowroll on Apr 8, 2018 0:13:49 GMT -5
Yep, I agree with ronv69 and sable. If that first bristle cleaner soaked in alchohol comes out black and gloppy, it needs it. If not,optional.
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exchef
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Post by exchef on Apr 8, 2018 15:53:52 GMT -5
Wear eye protection, I used an one glove to hold pipe, you don't need a big flame, candle will do, I used round cotton pads that manicurists use to wipe off nail polish to push down in pipe bowl. Be very careful , be safe. Sounds like kosher salt and alcohol is a healthier way to clean a pipe...but where's the fun in that? Safety first. Coffee first, safety is like 3rd or 4th on the list. Sorry, couldn't resist. I'll go be quiet now. ExChef
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Post by Legend Lover on Apr 8, 2018 16:07:37 GMT -5
Sounds like kosher salt and alcohol is a healthier way to clean a pipe...but where's the fun in that? Safety first. Coffee first, safety is like 3rd or 4th on the list. Sorry, couldn't resist. I'll go be quiet now. ExChef very good.
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flyinmanatee
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Post by flyinmanatee on Apr 8, 2018 22:00:27 GMT -5
Thanks for the responses, now using the completion backwards principle may I ask about the intial treatment? I've seen the following:
Oxy Clean Bar keeper's Friend Bleach dilution Or straight to Alcohol
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Post by slowroll on Apr 9, 2018 8:04:55 GMT -5
Except for alcohol, they're all for cleaning oxidation from stems only. I use only wet sandpaper and bar keepers. Depending on the ebonite formulation, oxyclean or bleach may make oxidation worse. And you don't know until you put the stem in it, then see that it's gotten even greener. Use alcohol first, then clean the stems
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gav
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Post by gav on Apr 9, 2018 17:40:22 GMT -5
interesting. I was thinking I could run some rubber hose from the end of my espresso machine steam arm to the end of my pipe and to do something similar
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Post by slowroll on Apr 9, 2018 18:05:24 GMT -5
interesting. I was thinking I could run some rubber hose from the end of my espresso machine steam arm to the end of my pipe and to do something similar I don't think you want to send water steam into your pipe. Besides, water doesn't dissolve the klag. Boiling alcohol in it might not be such a good idea.
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flyinmanatee
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Post by flyinmanatee on Apr 10, 2018 23:02:08 GMT -5
Except for alcohol, they're all for cleaning oxidation from stems only. I use only wet sandpaper and bar keepers. Depending on the ebonite formulation, oxyclean or bleach may make oxidation worse. And you don't know until you put the stem in it, then see that it's gotten even greener. Use alcohol first, then clean the stems How about the exterior briar for dust,oils etc, just like a mild soap & water on a cloth? I can paint your car or boat but wood finishes if far from my expertise, thanks.
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Post by slowroll on Apr 10, 2018 23:42:53 GMT -5
If you're going to wax the bowl Afterward, I use diluted alcohol, less than 50%, to clean the outside of the stummel. It'll dull the finish, so you have to wax. Don't rub, just wipe lightly so you don't take off any finish. I don't like water on the briar. Some do, but I don't think it does it any good, besides possibly staining it grey-ish white depending on the finish. Most of my briar cleaning I do with a buffing wheel and white tripoli--with a light touch (while keeping a good grip on it).
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