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Post by roadsdiverged on Jul 7, 2018 17:08:20 GMT -5
The first pipe I bought is truly a piece of junk but it introduced me to pipe smoking.
Instead of throwing it out I've decided to send it down and try to fix the issues I have with it. Sanding it down, no big deal, I have paper from 220 to 2000 grit and a whole lot of spare time. 220 was to get the varnish(?) off. Now I'm using 400 and working my way down all by hand.
The question I really have is this... the draw on the pipe is decent, but the stem is too restricted for me. Is there anyway to open it up? It's a bent stem and acrylic. I was thinking about warming it up, straightening it out and trying to open it up that way.
Any thoughts?
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Post by Legend Lover on Jul 7, 2018 18:24:34 GMT -5
What you suggested is what I would attempt, but I'm grasping at straws.
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Post by Deleted on Jul 7, 2018 18:30:55 GMT -5
Some people, myself included will open up the hole at the end of the tenon of the stem. Almost looks as it was counter sunk for a screw to fit flat. That’s the best was to explain what it should look like when your stem is finished. I have a few custom made pipes where the maker finishes his stems in that fashion. Nice smooth clean draw👍 Post a picture when your done, have fun!!!
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Post by slowroll on Jul 7, 2018 18:31:11 GMT -5
That can work, but you need a tapered drillbit do that you don't have a step near the button where it narrows sharply. That will catch / condense moisture. They are sold as tapered wood screw drills. Typically they come from suppliers to wooden boat people, or McMaster - Carr supply. You can smooth the airway with flexible abrasive cord from Mitchell's comes in various grits, about .050 dia.
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Post by Deleted on Jul 7, 2018 18:32:16 GMT -5
What you suggested is what I would attempt, but I'm grasping at straws. Purchase an old pipe cheap and give it a whirl. It’s relaxing and rewarding at the same time. |
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Post by roadsdiverged on Jul 7, 2018 19:19:32 GMT -5
Thanks for the replies. I'm in no rush to get this done, but I want to attempt to do it right. Even if it doesn't turn out as a good smoker, I'm not at a loss. I dont use this pipe at all anymore.
Other than being my first pope, its value is far less than the time I've already put into it.
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Post by Deleted on Jul 7, 2018 21:56:39 GMT -5
To open a bent stem remove it from the pipe and slide a pipe cleaner all the way through it leaving enough at the tenon end to hold. (Of course after you've cleaned it) Then get a heat gun and heat the stem up gradually passing back and forth from button to end but, NOT the tenon. When it starts to soften you'll see it start to straighten out by it's self. Do NOT help it because just the pressure from your hands will deform it. If it doesn't seem to become perfectly straight then you can apply some slight pressure to help it, maybe even lay it on the flat bench and push slightly. Once it's straight dunk it in cold water till cool. Now you can take a 9/64" tapper bit found here vermontfreehand.com/product/fuller-taper-point-drill-bits/I suggest getting the 5-1/4" length. Drill the airway out slowly a little at a time, clearing out chips but, use a good speed, too slow may snap or crack the stem. Do NOT drill all the way to the button/bite zone. Stop about 1/2' or more from the button. Now if it's hard to get a pipe cleaner through the button opening I suggest opening it also but, this takes an exacting hand per say and patience and knowledge of using jewelers files. You may want to get a Funneling tool which will aid quite a bit in opening the funnel vermontfreehand.com/product/slot-funneling-tools/ You also might want to polish the inside of the airway and for that you'll need some white rouge and a pipe cleaner locked into a vise. After your done you can bend the stem back the same way you straightened it but, now when it starts to get soft you bend it with your gloved hand until your satisfied with the bend and dunk it in cool water while holding it at the bend you wish it to be. You'll most likely need to polish the stem up again because of the heat has dulled it quite a bit. That's about the basics of opening a bent stem up and if ya think that's a pain ya ought to try making a stem from rod stock, it's even more fun. Oh, and the pipe cleaner in the stem when heating and bending is to keep the airway from collapsing on ya. |
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Post by roadsdiverged on Jul 7, 2018 22:26:33 GMT -5
Thank you very much!
If all goes well, this will be a good practice run for more in the future.
I'll get what I need ordered this week. The stem is going to be the last thing that I do anyway. And that's only if I like the way it looks after sanding it down and refinishing it.
So far it's been a good reason to sit in the shed, smoke a few pipes and relax.
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Post by Deleted on Jul 7, 2018 22:37:19 GMT -5
Thank you very much! If all goes well, this will be a good practice run for more in the future. I'll get what I need ordered this week. The stem is going to be the last thing that I do anyway. And that's only if I like the way it looks after sanding it down and refinishing it. So far it's been a good reason to sit in the shed, smoke a few pipes and relax. Your Welcome sir, Just remember NOT to use your usual store bought stains and such on a pipe. Aniline dyes is what should be used only, like that of Fiebing's Leather Dye, NOT the OIL Dye. And apply it with a pipe cleaner or swab, the Dabber soaks way too much up and will just be a mess when applying it. How to prep and apply is another can of worms I won't go into right now. |
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Post by roadsdiverged on Jul 7, 2018 22:48:11 GMT -5
I was actually reading about that a few minutes ago. I've worked with wood most of my life and mopping on stain is never the way to go. Depending on how it looks when the sanding is finished, it might stay natural, maybe sanded just enough to lighten it. But with the way the finish was, hard telling how the stain is going to be. It took 10 forevers to get the varnish off. It looked like, and felt like, they dipped it in lacquer about 20 times. That's the whole reason it's being sanded.
First pipe was a cheap pipe, and I got what I paid for. But it opened a whole new world for me, for that I am thankful.
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Post by dave g on Jul 8, 2018 0:02:49 GMT -5
I’ve opened a restrictive button with needle files before. Often times, that’s the spot with airflow restrictions.
Acetone will remove a varnished clear coat without disturbing the stain.
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Post by roadsdiverged on Jul 19, 2018 16:54:16 GMT -5
Well I gave up on this project. I sanded here and there for a few weeks and called it quits. I have no idea what kind of wood this pipe is made from. It has grains and pores like oak does, but they greyish/black throws me off. Maybe a cheap "ebony" pipe. Either way. It was my first pipe and I only used it a few times. After I picked up my 2nd pipe (Dr. Grabow Freehand) I never used this one again. I sanded it a little more, cleaned it off and buffed it a little. It will now return to my drawer in my pipe and tobacco desk and it will sit there. Gotta keep it because it was my first one, but it smokes awful and the unknown wood made me decide to give up on it.  |
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Post by Legend Lover on Jul 19, 2018 16:56:05 GMT -5
Well I gave up on this project. I sanded here and there for a few weeks and called it quits. I have no idea what kind of wood this pipe is made from. It has grains and pores like oak does, but they greyish/black throws me off. Maybe a cheap "ebony" pipe. Either way. It was my first pipe and I only used it a few times. After I picked up my 2nd pipe (Dr. Grabow Freehand) I never used this one again. I sanded it a little more, cleaned it off and buffed it a little. It will now return to my drawer in my pipe and tobacco desk and it will sit there. Gotta keep it because it was my first one, but it smokes awful and the unknown wood made me decide to give up on it. still looks good though. |
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Post by roadsdiverged on Jul 19, 2018 17:01:07 GMT -5
It looks better than it did. It started off almost black and extremely glossy. I cant remember if I took a before picture or not, I'll look later.
Either way, I enjoyed watching it transform as I sanded and sanded.
Was a good experience. I'll find some more worthy pipes to clean up in the future
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Post by Deleted on Jul 19, 2018 17:39:35 GMT -5
Seriously.....it does look good. Keep smoking the pipe and in time it will get naturally darker👌👍
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Post by Pistol Pete 1911 on Jul 19, 2018 18:09:30 GMT -5
Well I gave up on this project. I sanded here and there for a few weeks and called it quits. I have no idea what kind of wood this pipe is made from. It has grains and pores like oak does, but they greyish/black throws me off. Maybe a cheap "ebony" pipe. Either way. It was my first pipe and I only used it a few times. After I picked up my 2nd pipe (Dr. Grabow Freehand) I never used this one again. I sanded it a little more, cleaned it off and buffed it a little. It will now return to my drawer in my pipe and tobacco desk and it will sit there. Gotta keep it because it was my first one, but it smokes awful and the unknown wood made me decide to give up on it. Personally I see absolutely nothing wrong with that pipe but I don't hafta smoke it, Kinda unique if you ask me and I bet if you wax it then hit with a buffing wheel it would be really sharp. |
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Post by roadsdiverged on Jul 19, 2018 18:12:24 GMT -5
The draw on it is way to tight for me. Maybe after a while I'll take it for another spin.
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Post by beardedmi on Jul 19, 2018 18:44:55 GMT -5
The draw on it is way to tight for me. Maybe after a while I'll take it for another spin. Heat up the stem to get it straight and take a drill bit through it by hand or with a non powered holder. Take a countersink and do the tenon ramp. Then open the mortise the same way with the same drill bit from the stem. 5/32 is what most of the guys I know use for airways. After your all done there heat it and bend it over a thick marker and your golden. |
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Post by Legend Lover on Jul 20, 2018 6:22:48 GMT -5
The draw on it is way to tight for me. Maybe after a while I'll take it for another spin. Heat up the stem to get it straight and take a drill bit through it by hand or with a non powered holder. Take a countersink and do the tenon ramp. Then open the mortise the same way with the same drill bit from the stem. 5/32 is what most of the guys I know use for airways. After your all done there heat it and bend it over a thick marker and your golden. just like that... |
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Post by Pistol Pete 1911 on Jul 20, 2018 20:00:09 GMT -5
Heat up the stem to get it straight and take a drill bit through it by hand or with a non powered holder. Take a countersink and do the tenon ramp. Then open the mortise the same way with the same drill bit from the stem. 5/32 is what most of the guys I know use for airways. After your all done there heat it and bend it over a thick marker and your golden. just like that... hell yes just like that |
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Post by roadsdiverged on Jul 20, 2018 20:58:27 GMT -5
I'm ordering bits and stuff tonight. I'll revisit this project next weekend if everything comes in during the week.
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Post by beardedmi on Jul 20, 2018 23:32:46 GMT -5
The hardest part will be funneling the slot in the stem but thats because of the tool size to do the job right is tiny.
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Post by Deleted on Jul 21, 2018 10:44:40 GMT -5
I'm ordering bits and stuff tonight. I'll revisit this project next weekend if everything comes in during the week. I suggest you check and see what size the draft hole is and if it's larger then your stems airway only drill the stem out to match the draft hole. You can take wood away but, ya can't put it back. Then if you find the draw is still to tight open both up one size larger. The funnel tool I pointed out is very easy to use, just takes patience and an exacting hand. And remember you don't want to open the button/ bite zone end out with the drill your opening the stem with just the funnel tool. |
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