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Post by Quintsrevenge on Oct 27, 2018 16:39:26 GMT -5
It would be great if you could provide some tips on cleaning and maintaining your pipes..What do you use / do after a smoke ? Bluff and polish ? I want to start a routine as my collection continues to grow..
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Post by Dramatwist on Oct 27, 2018 16:54:10 GMT -5
...what works for me the best is to run a pipe cleaner through the stem and shank, then use another bent in the shape of a "V" and ream out the bowl after a smoke... I avoid any buffing or polishing and prefer to use a micro-fiber cloth for polishing the briar. Avoid buffing at all costs! Eventually, you'll lose the nomenclature on your pipe. My 2 cents. YMMV.
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Post by McWiggins on Oct 27, 2018 16:57:20 GMT -5
...what works for me the best is to run a pipe cleaner through the stem and shank, then use another bent in the shape of a "V" and ream out the bowl after a smoke... I do the exact same but if the blend is more on the wet side, I'll fold up a paper towel, put it in the bowl and give it a few turns. |
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Post by mgtarheel on Oct 27, 2018 16:58:38 GMT -5
Put a little grain alcohol on the pipe cleaner when you run it through the stem and shank
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Post by bonanzadriver on Oct 27, 2018 17:02:29 GMT -5
Being as the vast majority of my modest stable of pipes are estates that I refurbed, I tend to keep em as clean as I can (having spent so much time reaming, cleaning and buffing em up)...
I run a pipe cleaner through the stem and shank after I smoke a bowl, as well as taking 1/2 of a paper towel folded over and twisted in the bowl to clean up any moisture or goop.
I realize that for some this is overkill and significantly impacts the building up of cake, but that's fine with me.
I also grab a buffing rag from time to time and polish the stummel and stems when they get to looking a bit dull.
Now that I think of it, I probably need to get refurbing station set up and buff em all up a gain. ;-)
(ok, ok, I have TAD, PAD and OCD)
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Post by Deleted on Oct 27, 2018 17:05:37 GMT -5
I run a smooth pipe cleaner through the stem and a bristle cleaner through the draft hole after each smoke. The chamber I roll a half sheet of paper towel up and do a deep cleaning of the inner chamber, roughly a dozen twists. After each use I have a microfiber cloth nearby that has my mixture of bee’s wax and mineral oil. I hand buff the briar and stem to a shine. I’ve used this method for over 40 years. Never any oxidation build up on the vulcanite/ebonite stems.
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Post by pepesdad1 on Oct 27, 2018 17:10:17 GMT -5
I run a smooth pipe cleaner through the stem and a bristle cleaner through the draft hole after each smoke. The chamber I roll a half sheet of paper towel up and do a deep cleaning of the inner chamber, roughly a dozen twists. After each use I have a microfiber cloth nearby that has my mixture of bee’s wax and mineral oil. I hand buff the briar and stem to a shine. I’ve used this method for over 40 years. Never any oxidation build up on the vulcanite/ebonite stems. Can't beat this advice...covers all areas and that is enough. |
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Post by trailboss on Oct 27, 2018 19:38:03 GMT -5
If I casually sat at home, I would have Everclear at the ready to run a secondary pipe cleaner through after DT's method...since I am on the road much of the time I do what he does. Consequently, after awhile sometimes the pipe gets kind of funky and requires more cleaning. I do not have a buffer, so I use Tom's gunstock mix on the briars: thegunstockdoctor.com/Products.htmlI use autosol on vulcanite stems, and treat with Obsidian oil. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003PHLTOG/ref=s9_acsd_hps_bw_cr_x__a_w |
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Post by monbla256 on Oct 27, 2018 21:01:21 GMT -5
I'll put a cleaner in the shank to the bottom of the bowl and let it stay for about 15 minutes or so before I pull it out. I then wipe the outside of the bowl with my old Dunhill polishing cloth I've had for years. Put's a soft luster to the bowl an shank. The bits are mostly Vulcanite and oxidize easiiy these days so periodicaly I clean 'em with so toothpaste and polish with a micro fiber cloth I use for that only. Then I give a blow threw from the bit to make sure all's clear . Since I smoke mostly all straight virginias and only one aro ( all virginia, no Burley) I have no "goop" in the bottom of my pipes and it takes a bit longer to build cake, so I only have to do any reaming maybe once a year. Been doing my pipe care this way and it has worked well for me.  |
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piffyr
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Post by piffyr on Oct 27, 2018 23:51:18 GMT -5
After smoking and dumping the ash/dottle, I run a regular cleaner through the stem and shank, then flip it around and run the other end through. Then, I double it over into a sort of loop and run it around the chamber to remove any loose, chunky bits that stick around. Last, I wipe the rim down with a very lightly dampened cloth to remove any tar overflow and hand buff with a microfiber cloth before putting the pipe away.
About every 3/4 months, I clean the stem and shank internals with alcohol dampened cleaners. Since it's my pipe and seasoned the way I like it, I don't need the cleaners to come back out white, but I definitely don't want them black or dark brown. I'll take the opportunity to apply a fresh coat of wax, and then the pipe is good to go for a few more months.
I would advise you to never use abrasive buffing compounds for cleaning or other routine maintenance. Doing so will slowly erode the finish, nomenclature, and even the shape over time.
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Post by morallynomadic on Oct 28, 2018 7:10:20 GMT -5
I'm much more lax than the previous posts.
I would say that a little over half of the time after smoking, I dump the ash, give the pipe a wrist flick, take stem off, blow through it and the shank, and then put the pipe somewhere.
The rest of the time, I'll run a pipe cleaner through the stem and shank after blowing through them.
If it was a particularly wet smoke in briar, I'll do the paper towel in the bowl deal, but I tend to avoid briar because of its tendency to cause wet smokes.
As for polishing or wiping the pipe down, that all gets done only if I'm doing a thorough cleaning with alcohol etc. On that note, I use isopropyl, not everclear, as it's waaaaaaaaay cheaper.
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Post by Legend Lover on Oct 28, 2018 8:22:19 GMT -5
Nothing much to add here. I pretty much follow Dramatwist's method. I don't do a deep clean as I figure that DT's technique after every pipe prevents me from needing to. |
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Post by smellthehatfirst on Oct 28, 2018 10:48:16 GMT -5
I also break down the pipe and run a pipe cleaner through at the earliest opportunity.
The controversial bit: I prefer to do it while the pipe is still hot -- the tars are softer and it's easier to get the gunk out.
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Post by Dramatwist on Oct 28, 2018 10:53:12 GMT -5
I also break down the pipe and run a pipe cleaner through at the earliest opportunity. The controversial bit: I prefer to do it while the pipe is still hot -- the tars are softer and it's easier to get the gunk out. ...with you on that smellthehatfirst. |
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piffyr
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Post by piffyr on Oct 28, 2018 11:35:02 GMT -5
The controversial bit: I prefer to do it while the pipe is still hot -- the tars are softer and it's easier to get the gunk out. Doing so can lead to tenon deformation over time, which itself can lead to a loose or crooked fit or a cracked shank. I would strongly advise against it, but the pipe and the risks are yours. |
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Post by smellthehatfirst on Oct 28, 2018 12:24:36 GMT -5
The controversial bit: I prefer to do it while the pipe is still hot -- the tars are softer and it's easier to get the gunk out. Doing so can lead to tenon deformation over time, which itself can lead to a loose or crooked fit or a cracked shank. I would strongly advise against it, but the pipe and the risks are yours. I don't buy it.
I had done it from time to time out of frustration, but felt bad about it. I was finally persuaded by a Fred Hanna essay.
Hanna is a collector of extraordinarily fine pipes, has been for decades. One of the finest collections in the world, and heavily smoked. Hanna is quite clear on this topic: he's been breaking down pipes hot for forty years, no harm done. He's got a lot more money riding on it than I do.
Breaking down pipes while hot makes them effortless to clean, and has no visible effect on the pipe.
The only pipes I have with loose tenons are pipes that came to me with loose tenons. Nothing seems to be loosening over time due to my cleaning practices.
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Post by jeffd on Oct 28, 2018 12:49:58 GMT -5
My routine these days is to smoke the pipe and lay it aside. Maybe grab another pipe out of the great leather box I keep them in. (I religiously smoke a pipe only once a day.)
Then at some point I clean all the set aside pipes. Take apart, blow through, run the cleaner through, wipe the bowl, replace the filter if any, put it all back together, and put it back in the leather box.
I have never used alcohol or anything though perhaps I might need to at some point. I would use Bulleit special barrel strength (120 proof).
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Post by slowroll on Oct 28, 2018 13:01:41 GMT -5
I also break down the pipe and run a pipe cleaner through at the earliest opportunity. The controversial bit: I prefer to do it while the pipe is still hot -- the tars are softer and it's easier to get the gunk out. I've been doing that for 45 years with no problems at all. I have adjusted all my pipes so the tenons are not super tight, however. By doing that, they almost never need an alcohol cleaning. |
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piffyr
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Post by piffyr on Oct 28, 2018 13:39:55 GMT -5
I don't buy it. I had done it from time to time out of frustration, but felt bad about it. I was finally persuaded by a Fred Hanna essay.
Hanna is a collector of extraordinarily fine pipes, has been for decades. One of the finest collections in the world, and heavily smoked. Hanna is quite clear on this topic: he's been breaking down pipes hot for forty years, no harm done. He's got a lot more money riding on it than I do.
Breaking down pipes while hot makes them effortless to clean, and has no visible effect on the pipe.
The only pipes I have with loose tenons are pipes that came to me with loose tenons. Nothing seems to be loosening over time due to my cleaning practices.
I once drove my car around for around for a year with a bad inspection sticker. I never got pulled over for it, but that doesn't mean that I didn't risk it every time I was on the road. I know what I have seen from doing repair work and you will not catch me breaking down a hot pipe for that reason. If you choose to do so with your own pipes, I will not argue, but I certainly don't recommend it either. |
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Post by smellthehatfirst on Oct 28, 2018 14:06:07 GMT -5
I have never used alcohol or anything though perhaps I might need to at some point. I would use Bulleit special barrel strength (120 proof). I only use alcohol on a pipe that's turned "sour." That's a pretty rare event, thankfully. |
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Post by smellthehatfirst on Oct 28, 2018 14:07:37 GMT -5
I once drove my car around for around for a year with a bad inspection sticker. I never got pulled over for it, but that doesn't mean that I didn't risk it every time I was on the road. That's quite different from doing it in dozens of cars for forty years  I know what I have seen from doing repair work and you will not catch me breaking down a hot pipe for that reason. If you choose to do so with your own pipes, I will not argue, but I certainly don't recommend it either. Well, what have you seen in doing repair work? I know that loose tenons and broken shanks exist, I'm just dubious that they're caused by breaking down a hot pipe to clean it. |
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piffyr
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Post by piffyr on Oct 28, 2018 14:42:16 GMT -5
That's quite different from doing it in dozens of cars for forty years Actually, it really isn't. You are no more or less at risk on the last day of the 40th year than you were on the first day of the first year. The risk remains constant. Well, what have you seen in doing repair work? Clients asking if I can fix a tenon or shank that broke when they took the pipe apart directly after smoking. |
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Post by Deleted on Oct 28, 2018 15:28:49 GMT -5
Gosh I love it when folks compare wood and rubber to steel expansion properties always exciting. I put a little Chap Stick on the vulcanite it does not shine but it does not turn brown. Pipe cleaners down the stem and shank then brush out the bowl then cork screw a paper towel around a couple times.
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Post by LSUTigersFan on Oct 28, 2018 16:27:45 GMT -5
I usually just run a pipe cleaner through the pipe, and use the paper towel tip everyone else mentioned. Every few weeks, I break down down run Everclear through half of them. The following week, I run Everclear through the other half. I then wipe them down with wax, and then use Obsidian oil on the stem.
And, then I repeat the process again...again...and again.
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Post by LSUTigersFan on Oct 28, 2018 16:28:45 GMT -5
Also, we need some stickies on this forum. This needs to be stickied along with the one about keeping your pipes lit.
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Post by Legend Lover on Oct 28, 2018 16:44:15 GMT -5
Also, we need some stickies on this forum. This needs to be stickied along with the one about keeping your pipes lit. I'm happy to oblige. |
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Post by smellthehatfirst on Oct 28, 2018 23:28:08 GMT -5
That's quite different from doing it in dozens of cars for forty years Actually, it really isn't. You are no more or less at risk on the last day of the 40th year than you were on the first day of the first year. The risk remains constant. Indeed, the risk is independent among all trials, but stacking the risk year after year, multiple trials a day, without a single incident, allows you to infer something about the risk on any individual trial. Well, what have you seen in doing repair work? Clients asking if I can fix a tenon or shank that broke when they took the pipe apart directly after smoking. Now we are competing on anecdotes! Fred Hanna, Dramatwist, and I are all breaking down our pipes hot for easy cleaning. You are not. Let's touch base in twenty years and see how we're doing. |
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piffyr
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Post by piffyr on Oct 29, 2018 0:37:08 GMT -5
Actually, it really isn't. You are no more or less at risk on the last day of the 40th year than you were on the first day of the first year. The risk remains constant. Indeed, the risk is independent among all trials, but stacking the risk year after year, multiple trials a day, without a single incident, allows you to infer something about the risk on any individual trial. Clients asking if I can fix a tenon or shank that broke when they took the pipe apart directly after smoking. Now we are competing on anecdotes! Fred Hanna, Dramatwist , and I are all breaking down our pipes hot for easy cleaning. You are not. Let's touch base in twenty years and see how we're doing. Listen, my friend. We're not competing on anything. By all means, break your pipe apart while hot and clean it out with carburetor cleaner if you like. It really makes no matter to me, but I'll continue to advise against the practice. |
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Post by smellthehatfirst on Oct 29, 2018 1:07:00 GMT -5
I'm not about to clean a pipe with carb cleaner, but that's more about my health than the pipe.
I imagine the briar itself will be un-harmed. But I don't want to deal. I clean pipes indoors and that generally makes carb cleaner less than wise!
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Post by smellthehatfirst on Oct 29, 2018 1:10:28 GMT -5
Listen, my friend. We're not competing on anything. By all means, break your pipe apart while hot and clean it out with carburetor cleaner if you like. It really makes no matter to me, but I'll continue to advise against the practice. It's all in good fun. I just wanted to point out that neither of us have sound evidence, just anecdotes. On your side, folks who came to repair and mentioned the occasional hot breakdown. On my side, a pipe celebrity, our very own Dramatwist, and our very own slowroll. Neither of our "evidence" is statistically sound -- we just have differing sources of anecdotes. The competition is genuinely friendly. I'm glad you contribute, and it's more than OK to challenge me. And in a couple of decades, hopefully we will check in on this very same forum |
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