briarbuck
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Post by briarbuck on Nov 1, 2018 15:07:42 GMT -5
I dabble with the gee-tar. I also like working on them. Finding a used gem to clean up with a little spit and polish.
I learned a technique on how to remove dents in the wood using a soldering iron and a damp cloth. It got me wondering if this has been tried with briar?
BTW - I ue the black fret glue repair to fix deep bites in stems.
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Post by william on Nov 1, 2018 15:32:33 GMT -5
Never tried that on a pipe. But I raised a couple of dings on a rifle stock using heat (an iron) and a wet wash cloth.
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Post by Legend Lover on Nov 1, 2018 15:35:24 GMT -5
That's a really neat trick. You may want to sand off the finish beforehand. Maybe not, but it might make a difference.
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Post by roadsdiverged on Nov 1, 2018 15:49:44 GMT -5
I used to sand and finish floors and that's how I got dings and slide marks (imprints not gouges) out of them. I've never tried it with briar, but I know it works great on oak and pine  |
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briarbuck
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Leave the gun...take the cannoli.
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Post by briarbuck on Nov 1, 2018 15:52:31 GMT -5
That's a really neat trick. You may want to sand off the finish beforehand. Maybe not, but it might make a difference. I assume that this trick would only work during a refinishing. The pores would have to be open and exposed to swell and take the steam. |
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Post by pepesdad1 on Nov 1, 2018 15:53:28 GMT -5
Yup, you can use a clothes iron as well...always use a damp cloth directly on the wood however. Otherwise you have an oops that you don't want.
Those who need to top a pipe would be well advised to check out the video that GeorgeD provided...He is the master. Piffy and DaveG are right behind him in expertise in my opinion.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Nov 1, 2018 15:56:01 GMT -5
Never tried that on a pipe. But I raised a couple of dings on a rifle stock using heat (an iron) and a wet wash cloth. William ^^^^^^ same method my Dad and I used for years....just takes patience 👍 |
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Post by dave g on Nov 1, 2018 18:05:06 GMT -5
Yes it works with briar too. It’s hit or miss. Works well on most soft dents. Not so well on sharp creased dents. It’ll also steam out the nomenclature if you get too close, so be careful.
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piffyr
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Post by piffyr on Nov 2, 2018 0:49:42 GMT -5
Yes it works with briar too. It’s hit or miss. Works well on most soft dents. Not so well on sharp creased dents. It’ll also steam out the nomenclature if you get too close, so be careful. ^^^^^This. Approach it like a surgeon. |
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piffyr
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Post by piffyr on Nov 2, 2018 7:12:38 GMT -5
It's also worth noting that steaming can blanch the finish somewhat. So, be prepared to do some light refinishing if you try it.
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Post by Butch Cassidy on Nov 2, 2018 7:45:56 GMT -5
Good....thanks for posting.....
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briarbuck
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Leave the gun...take the cannoli.
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Post by briarbuck on Nov 2, 2018 8:19:24 GMT -5
Cool thanks for the info (as usual). It does open up a few pipes that I may not have looked at before if I'm able to fix with steam, rather than sand. I'm sure it's hit or miss.
Here's another that shows some pretty large dings being removed.
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Post by pappyjoe on Nov 2, 2018 8:27:55 GMT -5
Now if it would only work on vulcanite stems.
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piffyr
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Post by piffyr on Nov 2, 2018 12:54:52 GMT -5
Now if it would only work on vulcanite stems. The careful application of heat works just about as well for vulcanite. |
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chasingembers
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Post by chasingembers on Nov 4, 2018 12:22:03 GMT -5
Now if it would only work on vulcanite stems. I use a lighter or a heat gun on vulcanite. |
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briarbuck
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Leave the gun...take the cannoli.
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Post by briarbuck on Nov 5, 2018 11:36:51 GMT -5
Anyone try it on a meer dent? I can see how it may work considering the porosity.
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piffyr
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Post by piffyr on Nov 5, 2018 13:37:09 GMT -5
Anyone try it on a meer dent? I can see how it may work considering the porosity. Too be honest, I don't think I've ever even seen a dented meerschaum. The same trauma that will dent a briar will usually either fracture or at least take a divot out of meerschaum. |
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briarbuck
Full Member
Leave the gun...take the cannoli.
Posts: 851
Favorite Pipe: The next one
Favorite Tobacco: Dunbar, 40th, PSBEF
Location:
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Post by briarbuck on Nov 5, 2018 13:45:47 GMT -5
Anyone try it on a meer dent? I can see how it may work considering the porosity. Too be honest, I don't think I've ever even seen a dented meerschaum. The same trauma that will dent a briar will usually either fracture or at least take a divot out of meerschaum. I hit a Teekin with a fingernail when it was hot. Made a crescent shaped dent. Me thinks I'll leave 'er be. I'm not sure if I'm man enough to try to lift it out of one of my favorite pipes. |
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Post by beardedmi on Nov 5, 2018 21:10:31 GMT -5
Anyone try it on a meer dent? I can see how it may work considering the porosity. I think with the internal structure of a sedimentary rock you're kinda s.o.l. on raising a dent. Just seems the structure underneath being inorganic wont recover its previous shape. |
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Post by PhantomWolf on Nov 5, 2018 21:18:35 GMT -5
Really cool trick. I like my guitars to show wear, but this would be useful if I were working on a friend's. As far as pipes- I wonder if you could just wet the dent down and load up a bowl of sticky-wet Cavendish and puff away |
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Post by Pistol Pete 1911 on Nov 6, 2018 2:31:38 GMT -5
I see no reason why this shouldn't work at all
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Post by dave g on Nov 6, 2018 18:16:23 GMT -5
piffyrBlanch... now there’s a word you don’t hear everyday.
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