herman
New Member
Posts: 50
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Post by herman on Jul 21, 2019 10:51:59 GMT -5
Hi all; Got a few questions, do you have to use leather dye to stain pipes or can you use stain meant for wood, Minwax or any of the other stains available. Next I would like to know if the measurement say 50mm refers to the tenon diamitor. I hate metric. Lastly, has any one heard from TED since he deleted himself. I hope hes alright. Thats all for now, thank you for responding. herman
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Post by pepesdad1 on Jul 21, 2019 11:41:11 GMT -5
Leather stain is what most of the pipe makers use...why, I can't really give you a good answer on that. I've used Fiebings leather stain for my cobs and a few of the members cobs have come my way and that is what I use.
I've been in contact with Ted and he is dealing with some health issues...so prayers are welcomed I'm sure for his relief and healing of body.
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Post by Cramptholomew on Jul 21, 2019 20:22:10 GMT -5
Leather dye is used because it's alcohol based and doesn't raise the grain like traditional wood stains.
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captblack
Junior Member
Posts: 224
Favorite Pipe: Peterson, Tsuge, Savinelli
Favorite Tobacco: Aromatics and English Blends
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Post by captblack on Jul 21, 2019 21:35:15 GMT -5
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Deleted
Deleted Member
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Post by Deleted on Jul 21, 2019 21:40:36 GMT -5
The best way to stain a cob is to smoke the shite out of it while working in your shop. Getting grease, wood finish and what ever else on it.
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Post by Cramptholomew on Jul 21, 2019 21:50:51 GMT -5
Also, 50mm is way bigger than any tenon. It's 5cm, which is like 2.25". That's probably the measurement of the length of a shank or stem. A 50mm shank would be pretty long, though.
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Post by roadsdiverged on Jul 22, 2019 7:05:26 GMT -5
The best way to stain a cob is to smoke the shite out of it while working in your shop. Getting grease, wood finish and what ever else on it. I have 2 Legends that are "stained" by the same method. I approve.
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Post by roberted5 on Jul 27, 2019 12:25:13 GMT -5
I have used fresh picked black berries for staining briar pipe I carved and it worked. I just put pipe in plastic bag with berries and started smashing and rubbing them into briar. I let pipe sit in bag with stem attached until it got no darker from berries. I don’t wax my pipes so it wasn’t long until tobacco coloring took over. I just got two cobfoolery kits yesterday in mail and the finish of cob in these kits is too rough for staining. The varnished finish without varnish I think would look great stained. If you stain show a few pictures.
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Post by dave g on Jul 27, 2019 13:33:18 GMT -5
Fiebings products are the way to go.
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Post by briarpipenyc on Jul 29, 2019 19:02:08 GMT -5
Some cheapo alternatives...... try making your own custom dyes:
"SHARPIE MARKERS" use alcohol-base dyes. Crack open a few SHARPIES and stick the dye saturated wicks into a few ounces of denatured alcohol. Slice open the plastic covering around the wicks before inserting into alcohol ....for better/quicker saturation. You might need a few wicks to get a saturated solution. You can also "draw" with these mentioned Sharpie Markers onto the raw briar for touchups, etc. I would definitely practice on some junky yard-sale pipes, or on some sacrificial slices of virgin briar wood. Alcohol dyes really soak into briar, very quickly.
Powdered, "RIT" FABRIC DYES are also soluble when mixed into denatured alcohol/acetone. Test the saturation strength and dilute if necessary. RIT DYES can be bought were fabrics and sewing supplies are sold, and other vendors carry RIT dyes.. Test color strength on scrap briar. RIT can also dye many other common woods, like pine, beech, maple, cherry, birch, etc.
Have fun
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Post by pepesdad1 on Jul 29, 2019 19:07:24 GMT -5
Some cheapo alternatives...... try making your own custom dyes: "SHARPIE MARKERS" use alcohol-base dyes. Crack open a few SHARPIES and stick the dye saturated wicks into a few ounces of denatured alcohol. Slice open the plastic covering around the wicks before inserting into alcohol ....for better/quicker saturation. You might need a few wicks to get a saturated solution. You can also "draw" with these mentioned Sharpie Markers onto the raw briar for touchups, etc. I would definitely practice on some junky yard-sale pipes, or on some sacrificial slices of virgin briar wood. Alcohol dyes really soak into briar, very quickly. Powdered, "RIT" FABRIC DYES are also soluble when mixed into denatured alcohol/acetone. Test the saturation strength and dilute if necessary. RIT DYES can be bought were fabrics and sewing supplies are sold, and other vendors carry RIT dyes.. Test color strength on scrap briar. RIT can also dye many other common woods, like pine, beech, maple, cherry, birch, etc. Have fun Thanks for the tips...never knew that^^^^^.
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