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Post by toshtego on Aug 31, 2019 17:33:58 GMT -5
I have been out trying to work on my tractor which will not start- fuel problem, I reckon.
Since I cannot see for shite, have limited co-ordination and reduced mobility (right knee is bone on bone, now), what used to be a simple matter of turning a few wrenches and ratchets has turned into a real challenge.
I have to get my mind right around this new limited ability, plan better and allow more time. How I wish there was some eager young guy who liked to fiddle with tractors, trucks etc. Nope, not no more. All into smart phones and computers.
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Post by trailboss on Aug 31, 2019 17:43:48 GMT -5
If you have a local FFA John, I would inquire about getting an intern, a winner for both.
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Post by toshtego on Aug 31, 2019 19:39:35 GMT -5
If you have a local FFA John, I would inquire about getting an intern, a winner for both. No FFA in these parts. There is a 4-H but they little kids. |
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Post by Darin on Aug 31, 2019 19:46:43 GMT -5
Wish we were closer, John … I work for food!  BTW, I was in 4-H as a kid too … good times. |
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Post by Deleted on Aug 31, 2019 19:54:16 GMT -5
I wish I was closer we could stare at it together.
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Post by Deleted on Aug 31, 2019 20:45:47 GMT -5
I'll smoke a proxy pipe for ya and think about it.
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Post by Deleted on Sept 1, 2019 6:08:38 GMT -5
John could you please set up a live feed camera of tractor so we can all help.  |
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Post by Deleted on Sept 1, 2019 9:51:58 GMT -5
Not knowing when th tractor was built is a log in the road. Now if it is an older model there are a couple of thing you can check.
1. The gap in the points, should be about the thickness of a match book. Replace if contacts are burned or worn.
2. Rotor, look to see if the surface is not burned. Replace if severely worn or burned.
3. Distributor cap check contact surfaces for wear. Replace if severely worn.
4. Spark plugs check electrodes and check gap. Replace
5. Spark Plug Wires check they are not cracked or broken. Replace.
6. Coil and coil wire. Replace
What I listed above would be a normal time up. If you can find someone to rebuild the carb that would also help.
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Post by roadsdiverged on Sept 1, 2019 9:59:51 GMT -5
I'd fiddle with it. I prefer mechanics over electronics anyday.
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Post by toshtego on Sept 1, 2019 11:15:06 GMT -5
Not knowing when th tractor was built is a log in the road. Now if it is an older model there are a couple of thing you can check. 1. The gap in the points, should be about the thickness of a match book. Replace if contacts are burned or worn. 2. Rotor, look to see if the surface is not burned. Replace if severely worn or burned. 3. Distributor cap check contact surfaces for wear. Replace if severely worn. 4. Spark plugs check electrodes and check gap. Replace 5. Spark Plug Wires check they are not cracked or broken. Replace. 6. Coil and coil wire. Replace What I listed above would be a normal time up. If you can find someone to rebuild the carb that would also help. That might have helped with my International Harvester 544 back in the day. This one has a Cummins B3.3 diesel. I suspect the fuel line has air in it since there is a leak between the saddle tanks. |
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Post by Ronv69 on Sept 2, 2019 10:41:59 GMT -5
I gave up on doing mechanical stuff bigger than will fit in a gun case. I will be trailering the trike to a 72 year old mechanic in Dibol who will get it running at the end of the week. I may, may change the front shocks on the Ram when the weather cools off. If that goes well I might even upgrade the headlights.
Only tractor I ever worked on was a 1946 Case.
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Post by Deleted on Sept 2, 2019 12:36:09 GMT -5
You have to crack open all those injector lines at the injector and bleed them while cranking. Before you do that check that the electric solenoid mounted to the Stanadyne pump is working first. Depending on the CPL some of those solenoids are run and some are stop if you give them power they should move. The tank cross over valve can be bypassed by picking one tank or the other and blocking off the line intake port to valve of the tank not chosen. www.manualslib.com/manual/994823/Cummins-B3-3.html?page=24#manual |
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Post by toshtego on Sept 3, 2019 12:18:23 GMT -5
You have to crack open all those injector lines at the injector and bleed them while cranking. Before you do that check that the electric solenoid mounted to the Stanadyne pump is working first. Depending on the CPL some of those solenoids are run and some are stop if you give them power they should move. The tank cross over valve can be bypassed by picking one tank or the other and blocking off the line intake port to valve of the tank not chosen. www.manualslib.com/manual/994823/Cummins-B3-3.html?page=24#manualI know about cracking the injector lines. Not sure about the cross over valves for the saddle tanks. I will look into that. |
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Post by Ronv69 on Sept 3, 2019 12:33:37 GMT -5
I got my trailer aligned and backed up to the garage to load the trike if my helper ever wakes up. 😞👹
I walked a mile before it got too hot then got the trailer hooked up. About a hundred back and forths to get it straight. This is more activity than I have had since May.
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Post by toshtego on Sept 3, 2019 21:08:16 GMT -5
I got my trailer aligned and backed up to the garage to load the trike if my helper ever wakes up. 😞👹 I walked a mile before it got too hot then got the trailer hooked up. About a hundred back and forths to get it straight. This is more activity than I have had since May. I can sympathize. Years ago I drove past a guy whose pickup was in a dry irrigation ditch. He was trying to role his non-starting HD dresser into the back up a skinny board with the truck bed lower owing to being parked in the ditch. He was clearly overwhelmed by the enormous mass of a full dresser. He had two small boys "helping". So, I stopped to help him push it up onto the bed. We did it an I wonder if he ever got it stated again. A trike must really take some effort! Trailer hookups take a little technique to get things lined up right. I used to be spot on but have not kept my eye on for years. know about the back and forth and the one inch moves. |
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Post by Ronv69 on Sept 3, 2019 21:21:37 GMT -5
I got my trailer aligned and backed up to the garage to load the trike if my helper ever wakes up. 😞👹 I walked a mile before it got too hot then got the trailer hooked up. About a hundred back and forths to get it straight. This is more activity than I have had since May. I can sympathize. Years ago I drove past a guy whose pickup was in a dry irrigation ditch. He was trying to role his non-starting HD dresser into the back up a skinny board with the truck bed lower owing to being parked in the ditch. He was clearly overwhelmed by the enormous mass of a full dresser. He had two small boys "helping". So, I stopped to help him push it up onto the bed. We did it an I wonder if he ever got it stated again. A trike must really take some effort! I think the Harley Dresser is about 860 pounds. A Gold Wing is a good 965 pounds without the 20 pounds minimum farkles and stuff. The trike kit adds about 250 pounds, so about 1350 pounds with gas. However, my garage floor is about the same as the trailer floor. I planned it that way. I drop the trailer ramp onto the garage ramp and it just rolls straight across with a couple of bumps that require pushing. Hard part was getting the trailer in the just right position without a spotter. My son woke up and we pushed it in less than 5 minutes. Trailer has 3500 pound axle and didn't seem to sag in the least. |
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