DRILLING HOLES FOR SHANK AND STEM

I have some lube for deep hole drilling, but I doubt it would work for your needs. 😜

Thanks for the links. Pipe Makers Forum is the place to go for answers. I do some research.

So, I spent most of all day yesterday, checking for some advice and answers on The Pipe Makers Forum, and got all the information I needed to plunge, with some degree of confidence, a drill bit into my briar block -that's set up in a rigid, accurate, milling machine.  Very interesting  reading thru all the tips, suggestions, admonitions that were offered by guys who know how to make a pipe  I'm not one of them, but I'm gonna to try.  If briar was a block of Aluminum or steel, I'd have no problems with drilling holes and predicting where the holes will go, but briar is burl-wood.  Burl-wood has variable density and drills can follow the path of least resistance.  Especially, long skinny drills, in long deep holes.


Now, after reading thru the PMF, I think maybe I know what I have to do to minimize drilling mistakes, and what I have to do to prevent myself from taking that briar block out of the rigid milling machine and throwing that block of briar across the shop and denting the dry wall....which I'll ultimately have to patch, and repaint.  

You're right.....that deep-hole lube you offered will not work on briar...but it will work when-------ahhhh, never mind.

My walls in the shop are plywood, so denting isn't a problem. Did you find out about the couple of makers who can drill curved holes in the shank? 😎🤔😜🤠

Thanks for the encouragement and suggestions/links, etc.

I made my fist pipe about 30 years ago and I used my dad's 1956 Shop Smith, Five-In-One table saw. What a PITA! The pipe was made from a huge hunk of Bubinga, which was very difficult to cut, and file by hand. But I did it and the pipe turned out very nice and smoked even better. I don't believe anything that I read about Bubinga not being suitable for making pipes, imo. Bubinga is double the weight of briar, but it smokes just fine.

So fast forward to 2020-2021. I'm ready to blow my brains out from boredom. I live in fkd up New York City, and everything is empty, or, shut down. Restrictions are ridiculous, and I can't stand going out and wearing a mask. I feel like I can't breathe.

I decided to try making a pipe, but this time using briar. When I was a younger man, I did and tried everything. I had a rudimentary shop with some not so sophisticated tools, but with some blisters, blood, and sweat, I managed to make some very nice things....including a flintlock pistol, primitive powder horns, knives from old Chevy leaf-springs. I was always the kind of guy that would rather be in a shop instead of doing nothing.

So this Wuhan BS has inspired to make a pipe. A giant, XL Magnum pipe. A squashed tomato that the size of an actual large, tomato. I bought me a gigantic hunk of briar from Raw Krafted pipe supplies, and I'm pretty sure think I can cut out my giant pipe from the block that Raw Krafted sent me.

I'm not sure how to "read" the grain-lines on the raw briar blocks, but it doesn't matter. I plant on hand-rusticating the pipe. Sand pits and any minor flaws will not be a problem since they will most likely be carved away/disguised. Briar is what it is....and I'll make adjustments as I go along.

My friend will let me use his Bridgeport milling machine for the drilling of the critical holes. The shape of the pipe will be roughed out on a belt sander and the rest will be done by hand files, and sandpaper. I like to work slowly, and make corrections as I go along. Machines are great at removing material... but not so great at putting back things that get cut away. Things happen fast when machines are used. These days, I work slower. What's the hurry?

I'll give updates from time to time. I'll definitely include some pics if I can manage to learn how to post them.

So, the pattern for the pipe has been drawn, on graph paper, and I must have studied the side view of the pipe for hours.
The centerlines for the tobacco hole, the mortise, and the smoke hole seem to be aligned and intersect at a place that I think will allow an extra long pipe-cleaner to pass without restrictions. I looked and studied the planned pipe long enough. It's time to crap, or get off the pot. But......

Now, I just need to grow a brass set, and work up the courage, the moxie, to stick that hunk of briar in a milling-machine vise, and drill the damn holes. I hate that feeling I get in the pit of my stomach when I'm uncertain of the outcome. But this I know: at the end of the drilling session, I'll either have the beginnings of a pipe, or, a wasted piece of $80.00 briar. It's gonna be one or the other.

This week I'll set up the date and time to visit my friends shop. Standing in front of a full-size Bridgeport milling machine can be very impressive, and a little intimidating. But, I'm gonna do it. I have to do it. The drilling of that briar block is right around the corner.  I'm very grateful to have the use of a professional, dead accurate, milling machine for the drilling of the holes.    Rigidity, matters.

I'll keep you guys posted.

I use a 9/64" for the draft hole and the same size for the stem in a tapered bit. My stem slot I keep at around 1/16" with a funnel about 3/4" - 1" deep. Button height is 1/4" or less with a thickness of about 1/8" of less. Chambers I try to stay at 3/4" and 7/8" and 1-1/2" deep or a little less depending on the pipe of course. Use aircraft bits only when you have to, sometimes they like to drift depending on quality. That's what I do, it's not written in stone.

Could it be your just a little Bias, I would say as good if not better. LOL!