djo
Junior Member
Posts: 239
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Post by djo on Jan 18, 2021 20:35:41 GMT -5
Most of my pipes have acrylic stems. I've got one, though, that I really like that has a vulcanite stem. It's looking a little worn. I've searched for how to clean it up, and the most promising looking method is to use a Magic Eraser, which I have. However, that will probably leave the stem dull, and the instructions I've found say to polish it. Problem is, I don't know how to do that. Can you recommend something I might have around the house that would fit the bill?
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Post by Ronv69 on Jan 18, 2021 20:37:53 GMT -5
I use Savinelli stem polish. Among other things. Flitz would probably work. Try toothpaste first.
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Post by trailboss on Jan 18, 2021 21:39:16 GMT -5
I can get vulcanite to look really good, until it hits my lips and it is back to it looking crappy.
My best bet has been to send my pipes in to a professional and have the vulcanite stems treated to a week at the pipe spa. When I get them back, keep them out of the sun, wipe down after smoking and obsidian oil on the stems really does help before it goes back on the pipe rack.
I love the feel of Vulcanite, but the con with that media is it's propensity to oxidize and get funky looking.
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Post by Ronv69 on Jan 18, 2021 21:44:29 GMT -5
Better (German) vulcanite is a lot easier to maintain. I prefer horn, then acrylic.
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Post by trailboss on Jan 18, 2021 21:59:06 GMT -5
Yeah, I prefer to maintain the vulcanite on my estates, but for new purchases the tradeoff of having Acrylic wins the day.
There may come a time that I invest in a buffing wheel and get all the right components to maintain my vulcanite, but for now it is easier to pay someone else, rather than spend my downtime performing the mundane duties, when I retire that may very well change.
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Post by Professor S. on Jan 19, 2021 0:15:40 GMT -5
I'm still trying to wrap my head around whether the difference between vulcanite and ebonite is organic or syntactical, but if they are fundamentally the same thing (hard rubber), I have a suggestion. One of the most experienced and highly-respected restorers of vintage fountain pens in the US uses Wenol on his ebonite pens. I picked up a tube through the site named after robust warrior-women, and this stuff has performed near miracles in preserving/restoring the color and condition of my century-old Waterman Ideal 55. I now use it on all of my ebonite pens.
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Post by urbino on Jan 19, 2021 3:52:58 GMT -5
I'm still trying to wrap my head around whether the difference between vulcanite and ebonite is organic or syntactical, but if they are fundamentally the same thing (hard rubber), I have a suggestion. One of the most experienced and highly-respected restorers of vintage fountain pens in the US uses Wenol on his ebonite pens. I picked up a tube through the site named after robust warrior-women, and this stuff has performed near miracles in preserving/restoring the color and condition of my century-old Waterman Ideal 55. I now use it on all of my ebonite pens. Veeeeery interesting.
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Post by Legend Lover on Jan 19, 2021 4:13:52 GMT -5
I'm still trying to wrap my head around whether the difference between vulcanite and ebonite is organic or syntactical, but if they are fundamentally the same thing (hard rubber), I have a suggestion. One of the most experienced and highly-respected restorers of vintage fountain pens in the US uses Wenol on his ebonite pens. I picked up a tube through the site named after robust warrior-women, and this stuff has performed near miracles in preserving/restoring the color and condition of my century-old Waterman Ideal 55. I now use it on all of my ebonite pens. That's really helpful...and it's available in the UK too! Bonus.
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Post by urbino on Jan 19, 2021 5:11:29 GMT -5
Looked it up on Amazon. It's a metal polish. Wasn't expecting that. The description says "special ingredients produce a long-lasting, water-resistant layer that protects against rust and tarnish for weeks."
I wonder about ingesting whatever that is. That wouldn't really be a major consideration on a fountain pen. Can't tell from the Amazon listing what the "Harmful if Swallowed" warning is. Are we talking about an "induce vomiting and consult a physician" type thing, or more of just a "not for human consumption" warning?
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Post by trailboss on Jan 19, 2021 7:11:37 GMT -5
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Post by sparks on Jan 19, 2021 9:43:42 GMT -5
I'm still trying to wrap my head around whether the difference between vulcanite and ebonite is organic or syntactical... Ebonite is a brand name. I.e. Kleenex vs. tissue.
Ebonite = Kleenex Vulcanite = Tissue
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Post by Ronv69 on Jan 19, 2021 15:27:15 GMT -5
, when I retire that may very well change. HAH! ROFLMAO!, 🤣😂
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Post by Professor S. on Jan 19, 2021 21:37:36 GMT -5
Looked it up on Amazon. It's a metal polish. Wasn't expecting that. The description says "special ingredients produce a long-lasting, water-resistant layer that protects against rust and tarnish for weeks." I wonder about ingesting whatever that is. That wouldn't really be a major consideration on a fountain pen. Can't tell from the Amazon listing what the "Harmful if Swallowed" warning is. Are we talking about an "induce vomiting and consult a physician" type thing, or more of just a "not for human consumption" warning? Yeah, the metal polish thing threw me off a bit, too, but it's a non-abrasive polish that repairs (to some small degree) oxidation and provides a waxy, protective coating that isn't slick or sticky. The part of the box that isn't written in Thai says to induce vomiting and ingest plenty of water. It has the consistency of toothpaste, and although it smells nice I can't imagine anyone who doesn't have Pica being tempted to eat it.
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Post by Professor S. on Jan 19, 2021 21:40:42 GMT -5
I use Savinelli stem polish. Among other things. Flitz would probably work. Try toothpaste first. Flitz is the other product that Ron Zorn recommends for ebonite.
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Post by johnlawitzke on Jan 19, 2021 21:47:26 GMT -5
I recently purchased the Le Belle Époque deoxidizing stuff and have been getting good results. Look for Le Belle Époque Pens on Facebook or Google it to get his website. He originally developed the stuff for restoring old pens which were also made from vulcanite.
I’ll post pictures once I get them over to Imgur.
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Post by urbino on Jan 19, 2021 21:48:25 GMT -5
Looked it up on Amazon. It's a metal polish. Wasn't expecting that. The description says "special ingredients produce a long-lasting, water-resistant layer that protects against rust and tarnish for weeks." I wonder about ingesting whatever that is. That wouldn't really be a major consideration on a fountain pen. Can't tell from the Amazon listing what the "Harmful if Swallowed" warning is. Are we talking about an "induce vomiting and consult a physician" type thing, or more of just a "not for human consumption" warning? Yeah, the metal polish thing threw me off a bit, too, but it's a non-abrasive polish that repairs (to some small degree) oxidation and provides a waxy, protective coating that isn't slick or sticky. The part of the box that isn't written in Thai says to induce vomiting and ingest plenty of water. It has the consistency of toothpaste, and although it smells nice I can't imagine anyone who doesn't have Pica being tempted to eat it. Hmmmm...
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joeman
Full Member
Posts: 566
First Name: Joe
Favorite Pipe: Grabow Hillcrest
Favorite Tobacco: Sutliff Barbados Plantation
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Post by joeman on Jan 20, 2021 16:12:08 GMT -5
I've restored a couple thousand rubber stems, and have heard and tried every trick in the book. Many guys claim to have found the ever elusive magic shortcut to making a stem look good by wiping on an oil or using a polish. Many products can make an oxidized stem look better (to a certain degree), but most of these methods are simply covering up or even "soaking into" the oxidized material, to eliminate the chocolate scummy appearance, giving it a darker look. I can't tell you the hundreds of times I've received pipes which actually looked fairly decent...only to reveal the serious oxidation underneath the layers of wax / polish / oil once removed. I am no smarter than the next pipe restorer, but in my own experience, you've got to rid the stem of the oxidation before you take steps to finish and make it shiny...otherwise it's like the old saying goes - you've put lipstick on the pig. I'm not taking the high road and telling you you're wrong for simply slapping on some oil or polish...I'm simply confirming what you've done.
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Post by Professor S. on Jan 20, 2021 19:51:27 GMT -5
Yeah, the metal polish thing threw me off a bit, too, but it's a non-abrasive polish that repairs (to some small degree) oxidation and provides a waxy, protective coating that isn't slick or sticky. The part of the box that isn't written in Thai says to induce vomiting and ingest plenty of water. It has the consistency of toothpaste, and although it smells nice I can't imagine anyone who doesn't have Pica being tempted to eat it. Hmmmm... Ah, crap! I'm sorry. I lied. I knew I should've actually looked at the box rather than working from (decidedly rusty) memory. Here's a link to the MSDS. It actually says to not induce vomiting.
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Post by urbino on Jan 20, 2021 20:07:41 GMT -5
Ah, crap! I'm sorry. I lied. I knew I should've actually looked at the box rather than working from (decidedly rusty) memory. Here's a link to the MSDS. It actually says to not induce vomiting. Kerosene and white spirits do not sound best designed to enhance the flavor of anything. I think I might pass on this one, however good it may be at removing oxidation.
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Post by Ronv69 on Jan 20, 2021 20:50:05 GMT -5
Ah, crap! I'm sorry. I lied. I knew I should've actually looked at the box rather than working from (decidedly rusty) memory. Here's a link to the MSDS. It actually says to not induce vomiting. Kerosene and white spirits do not sound best designed to enhance the flavor of anything. I think I might pass on this one, however good it may be at removing oxidation. You can use most anything on the rubber stem. It will clean off with a little alcohol.
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