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Post by william on Mar 7, 2018 13:03:00 GMT -5
Any advice on long-term storage of tin tobacco that is not vacuum sealed? Mason jar? Or just store it away and not worry about it?
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Post by zambini on Mar 7, 2018 13:06:15 GMT -5
Others can provide better or more detailed advice but I'd suggest: air-tight clean mason jar in a cool dry place. You may have to rehydrate when opening it.
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Post by rblood on Mar 7, 2018 13:27:50 GMT -5
Wide mouth Mason jars are the way to go. Depending on the cut, I can usually get 4 oz of ribbon in the pint size Ball jars.
I have some with 10 plus years in the jars - the tobacco won't dry out if the are not opened.
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Post by rblood on Mar 7, 2018 13:33:13 GMT -5
I never open tins I have for aging and put them into jars. Tobacco ages better in their original tins in my experience. There is nothing better than opening a 15 year old tin, seeing the paper in the tin all dark and oily and seeing what was once a light brown color turn jet black. Most of my favorite blends come in tins only which I prefer. Here is some good info on aging tobacco. pipe-club.com/tobacco_aging_faq/eng/aging.phpUseful information / link from cigrmaster from another recent post. If the tin is sealed I say leave it, if not, jar it.
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Post by rblood on Mar 7, 2018 13:38:16 GMT -5
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Post by That Falls Guy on Mar 7, 2018 13:44:21 GMT -5
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Post by william on Mar 7, 2018 18:42:25 GMT -5
Wide mouth Mason jars are the way to go. Depending on the cut, I can usually get 4 oz of ribbon in the pint size Ball jars. I have some with 10 plus years in the jars - the tobacco won't dry out if the are not opened. Thanks Bob. I invested in some of the wide-mouth mason jars a few months ago when I decided to give the pipe another go. My experience is much like yours. The half pint jars will generally hold a 2 oz tin, and the pint a 4 oz tin. A 2 oz jar will hold two 2 oz tins of most flakes. I tend to use these for everyday use, so I have not actually jarred anything for long-term. I will have to admit to being a bit obsessive-compulsive and label my jars. And thanks for the links, I have read them all thoroughly.
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Post by rblood on Mar 7, 2018 18:44:39 GMT -5
Nice labeling, I wish I had the gumption to do the same!
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Post by william on Mar 7, 2018 18:49:56 GMT -5
Thanks Roy. The anaerobic/aerobic issue has already been settled in this case. Since it is not vacuum sealed, there is air in there. I thought maybe rust would be an issue. (Not a chemist but I think you need both moisture and air to generate rust). I read somewhere recently where some folks had ordered tinned tobacco and the cans were rusty. (I forgot which kind). G. L. Pease says his cans are coated and will not rust. But he has also said the Druequer and Sons tins have never (and are still not) vacuum sealed. And he should know. I suppose air is air, and just to be on the safe side, if I order more of these blends (and the two I have sampled so far are excellent--Inns of Court and Blairgowrie), I will just put them in the mason jars and keep my hands off.
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Post by william on Mar 7, 2018 18:52:14 GMT -5
Nice labeling, I wish I had the gumption to do the same! They are just Avery labels that I picked up at an office supply store--Avery 22830. Avery has an online template and you can print from their website--to your own printer.
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Post by That Falls Guy on Mar 7, 2018 19:43:36 GMT -5
Thanks Roy. The anaerobic/aerobic issue has already been settled in this case. Since it is not vacuum sealed, there is air in there. I thought maybe rust would be an issue. (Not a chemist but I think you need both moisture and air to generate rust). I read somewhere recently where some folks had ordered tinned tobacco and the cans were rusty. (I forgot which kind). G. L. Pease says his cans are coated and will not rust. But he has also said the Druequer and Sons tins have never (and are still not) vacuum sealed. And he should know. I suppose air is air, and just to be on the safe side, if I order more of these blends (and the two I have sampled so far are excellent--Inns of Court and Blairgowrie), I will just put them in the mason jars and keep my hands off. I'm more comfortable with the jars. I've only had a couple of issues with the rust on the tins, but for me, the jars are the way to go!
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Post by Dramatwist on Mar 7, 2018 20:35:47 GMT -5
...the rust isn't usually an issue, unless a particular blend has used vinegar as a preservative...
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Post by That Falls Guy on Mar 8, 2018 22:05:21 GMT -5
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Post by peteguy on Mar 9, 2018 14:00:27 GMT -5
One thing that often gets over looked in all of the cellaring and perhaps even preparation threads is where you live. I live in a dry desert climate so mold is the least of my worries. I want to smoke something really wet I leave it out for an hour and it is crispy. For my climate the concern for long term storage is opening something and having it turn to dust.
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Post by trailboss on Mar 9, 2018 23:45:02 GMT -5
Using mason jars upon opening if you smoke from it and put it back in the cellar, be scrupulous about keeping the rim and seal clean. A piece of tobacco can compromise the seal when you screw the lid on, the silicone seal is very thin.....short term probably not a problem though if you are smoking through it, the good news is that the lids are very cheap.
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exchef
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Post by exchef on May 3, 2018 10:18:29 GMT -5
Question on the mason jar methodology, I have a food saver with a wide mouth mason jar attachment. Would that be a good thing to use when cellaring?
Thanks in advance.
ExChef
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sablebrush52
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Post by sablebrush52 on May 3, 2018 11:07:05 GMT -5
Question on the mason jar methodology, I have a food saver with a wide mouth mason jar attachment. Would that be a good thing to use when cellaring? Thanks in advance. ExChef I take it that a "food saver" is a vacuum pump of some sort? Vacuum sealing jars has the effect of retarding the aging process. Here's an article from Greg Pease's site: www.glpease.com/Articles/vacuum.htmlHow long you can leave your tobacco in the tin varies on the type of tin. With canisters, tobacco can keep for decades. With the friction seal tins, 5 - 10 years, after which things become more "hit or miss". Keep in mind that friction seal tins are rarely completely sealed and are slowly leaking from the moment the lid goes on. They're designed to be "good enough" for "long enough".
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exchef
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Post by exchef on May 3, 2018 11:20:15 GMT -5
Question on the mason jar methodology, I have a food saver with a wide mouth mason jar attachment. Would that be a good thing to use when cellaring? Thanks in advance. ExChef I take it that a "food saver" is a vacuum pump of some sort? Vacuum sealing jars has the effect of retarding the aging process. Here's an article from Greg Pease's site: www.glpease.com/Articles/vacuum.htmlHow long you can leave your tobacco in the tin varies on the type of tin. With canisters, tobacco can keep for decades. With the friction seal tins, 5 - 10 years, after which things become more "hit or miss". Keep in mind that friction seal tins are rarely completely sealed and are slowly leaking from the moment the lid goes on. They're designed to be "good enough" for "long enough". Thank you, that is what i rather expected but wanted to ask the experts. ExChef
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Post by Legend Lover on May 3, 2018 11:30:26 GMT -5
Am I right in assuming that the choice then depends on whether or not you want to age your tobacco or preserve it?
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Post by jeffd on May 3, 2018 11:56:18 GMT -5
To help me understand: we are talking about the 50g tin, once opened. Not the unopened tins.
So I have only recently started buying tobacco significantly faster than I am smoking it. As yet unopened tins I just keep in the drawer. But the opened ones I am working from - that is the issue.
I am not sure I want to go down the canning and jarring road. The biggest reason is I really like the tin art. If someone wanted to make a little cash - offer the service of producing peel and stick jar or jar lid labels of the brands. (If someone already provides this service please let me know. My wallet is open and the moth flew out.)
What I do (now) is close the tin tightly, and put it in a sandwich bag, and toss it in the other drawer. I am thinking about those food savers, but I want to keep things as simple as possible.
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Post by william on May 3, 2018 12:21:42 GMT -5
Sorry guys. I started this thread and drifted away from it. I am referring to tinned tobacco that is not vacuum sealed at the factory--such as Drucquer & Sons. G. L. Pease says that this tobacco never was vacuum sealed, and it is not vacuum sealed today. So there is no question concerning anaerobic/aerobic aging. That issue has been decided by the manufacturer. So to my way of thinking, it seems irrelevant whether the tin is opened and the tobacco stored in a mason jar, or if it is simply left in the can. (Unless there is some aspect of this that I am not aware of).
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Post by Deleted on May 3, 2018 14:10:36 GMT -5
Mason Jar = best way!
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Post by Baboo on May 3, 2018 18:38:36 GMT -5
Pressure closed tins (not vacuum sealed) like HU, Peter Heinrichs, etc., will dry out over time (typically within a year). They are intended to be smoked soon after receipt. Vacuum bag sealers, I have found, are hit and miss - 50/50 at best... the plastic bags lose their airtight vacuum seal only days after the effort. Mason jars are THE best way to go. Moisture levels remain relatively constant and mold free 99.999% of the time. I keep my best Cuban and Padron Cigars in large Mason jars also... best humidor money can buy.
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Post by Deleted on May 4, 2018 1:58:15 GMT -5
Dang. Those labels look nice, William!
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Post by william on May 4, 2018 12:57:38 GMT -5
Dang. Those labels look nice, William! Thanks @walkman. Just Avery labels from Office Depot. If you have a printer and any kind of photo editing software, you can make your own.
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Post by william on May 4, 2018 13:03:09 GMT -5
Pressure closed tins (not vacuum sealed) like HU, Peter Heinrichs, etc., will dry out over time (typically within a year). They are intended to be smoked soon after receipt. Vacuum bag sealers, I have found, are hit and miss - 50/50 at best... the plastic bags lose their airtight vacuum seal only days after the effort. Mason jars are THE best way to go. Moisture levels remain relatively constant and mold free 99.999% of the time. I keep my best Cuban and Padron Cigars in large Mason jars also... best humidor money can buy. Baboo --I did not know what a pressure closed tin is--so I looked at some photos online. I assume it is one of these? If so--that's not what I am talking about. It is a sealed tin just like any other G L Pease tin. Here's a pic with the Drucquer & Sons tin next to a Chelsea Morning. Same thing. Pease says these (Drucquer and Sons) are not vacuum sealed, and the first tin I bought did not go "swoosh" when I opened it. Other Pease tins make the sound we are all accustomed to. Anyway, I ordered another tin and that's what prompted this whole thread. Sorry for the confusion. I have several other Pease blends sitting around in the original tins and have not given them a second thought. However since this particular line of tobacco is not vacuum sealed, I'm not sure what to do.
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Post by johnlawitzke on May 8, 2018 20:38:37 GMT -5
Pressure closed tins (not vacuum sealed) like HU, Peter Heinrichs, etc., will dry out over time (typically within a year). They are intended to be smoked soon after receipt. Vacuum bag sealers, I have found, are hit and miss - 50/50 at best... the plastic bags lose their airtight vacuum seal only days after the effort. Mason jars are THE best way to go. Moisture levels remain relatively constant and mold free 99.999% of the time. I keep my best Cuban and Padron Cigars in large Mason jars also... best humidor money can buy. Baboo --I did not know what a pressure closed tin is--so I looked at some photos online. I assume it is one of these? If so--that's not what I am talking about. It is a sealed tin just like any other G L Pease tin. Here's a pic with the Drucquer & Sons tin next to a Chelsea Morning. Same thing. Pease says these (Drucquer and Sons) are not vacuum sealed, and the first tin I bought did not go "swoosh" when I opened it. Other Pease tins make the sound we are all accustomed to. Anyway, I ordered another tin and that's what prompted this whole thread. Sorry for the confusion. I have several other Pease blends sitting around in the original tins and have not given them a second thought. However since this particular line of tobacco is not vacuum sealed, I'm not sure what to do. For tins like in the second phot, don’t worry about it. McClelland used those and so does C&D. I’ve smoked from several 20+ year old tins of that sort and the tobacco is just fine. The tobacco in the can will consume the oxygen present during aerobic fermentation and then become anaerobic fermentation. I prefer to leave cans like this as is and avoid the gas exchange of opening and jarring. Plus, potential future resale or trade value is much higher in the original sealed tin. You might not be planning on getting right of it, but your estate might....
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Post by william on May 9, 2018 7:15:05 GMT -5
Thanks, John. I had pretty much reached that conclusion. But it is nice to hear a more experienced piper say it....
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Post by Deleted on May 9, 2018 12:13:34 GMT -5
I will add, having a canning funnel handy when transferring pipe tobacco to jars makes the whole process much less messy.
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sablebrush52
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Post by sablebrush52 on May 9, 2018 13:53:13 GMT -5
Pressure closed tins (not vacuum sealed) like HU, Peter Heinrichs, etc., will dry out over time (typically within a year). They are intended to be smoked soon after receipt. Vacuum bag sealers, I have found, are hit and miss - 50/50 at best... the plastic bags lose their airtight vacuum seal only days after the effort. Mason jars are THE best way to go. Moisture levels remain relatively constant and mold free 99.999% of the time. I keep my best Cuban and Padron Cigars in large Mason jars also... best humidor money can buy. So far, none of my HU tins has dried out, after two years. For sure, these tins are not a long term solution, but the plastic top probably mitigates the rate that the moisture evaporates. What I may do is bag the contents inside the tin, like Peretti does, or really seal the join. Any friction sealed tin leaks from the get go. The round tins are better because the seal pressure is evenly distributed around the perimeter. Square and rectangular tins can't distribute the seal pressure evenly and are more likely to break down. The best for long term storage are mason jars, and even these have their limits. Probably the very best for long term storage were the cutter top tins.
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